Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Catch up on the conversation with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns in the Franchising forum plus sign up to receive a FREE eBook on how to grow your landscape business.
Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by ed2hess, Nov 19, 2013.
cut a little slot in it and use a flat head screw driver
Hit a pharmacy and get a bottle of wintergreen oil. It will soak into and help break the galvanic corrosion holding the bolts in. Use an EZ out or other brand extractor. Hit the edge of the screw with a chisel. Slot it as madcutter says. Lots of choices.....You are nowhere near defeated yet.
and heat it up a little also
Cut the slot with Dremel and took chisel and hammer and it came out. If i didn't get it this way then I use Fish recommendation. I got the snap rings out but the gears won't come out. I didn't get a brass pin to hit on the gear to force it out. I probably will use Dremel to cut away housing so i can get straight shot at bevel gear.
Some good suggestions.
I was told by a redmax dealer that sold me a shindy articulating head to go on my redmax units, that they often break like that from operators using the ground to adjust the angle of the blade, while not clamping down the lock lever so tightly that it can't be adjusted that way. As I recall, as result of the frequency of cracked cases, they changed a thing or two so if this is done it will leave a witness mark. Yours looks like a much older unit though. If you have other employees that run them, it might be worth advising to take the time to properly tighten and loosen the locking lever, and not use force against the blade (as described above) to make the adjustment. This may not apply at all to your case, or you may be aware of it already, but I thought it was worth mention.
Never had a problem with cases nut have had gears strip after 5 years of cutting 3/4-1" woody growth.
Posted via Mobile Device
I've seen quite a few of those break in that fashion, and it can usually be traced to being transported in the open position in a fashion the keeps pressure on the blades during transport. Newer gear boxes (on the AHS254, AHS242 etc) have additional reinforcement at that area of the gear box. That kind of damage generally won't happen under normal operating conditions, but 'normal' is a relative term.
The part number you need it 78700 for the complete assembly. Bolt this new gearhead on and go. If you decide to rebuild, the updated part number for the gear box housing and bearing assembly is P021028791. Check with your dealer/parts supplier to be sure you get a 'newer' designed gear head or check the way your guys are transporting that equipment.
Is it difficult to change the gear box if the gears are good?
I messed with one and I ended up with a bunch of little needle bears all over the place. I had to stick them back in by hand and hold then in place with grease.
Look, ya remove the snap ring from the straight cut pinion gear, since ya ain't got a brass or alum drift ( I ain't never....), just lay a penny on top of the gear and smack it with a hammer, it should just pop out, if it don't, finish off with a center punch/punch in the center. Sheesh!!!!
If ya go to Shindaiwa's site, they got an excellent IPL.
Very good information thanks a lot.
Is "sheesh" like duh? Like that penny idea thanks.