Disease Control

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by LawnMowerKing10, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. LawnMowerKing10

    LawnMowerKing10 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 837

    Having a really tough time combating Brown patch in Tall Fescue. Any recommendations before going to a synthetic fungicide like Disarm?

    Thanks!
     
  2. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,349

    This works well but costly Actinovate SP : http://www.monsantobioag.com/global...actinovatesp_fungicide_bklet_usa_10_13062.pdf


    Companion Biological Fungicide from Growth Products, works well too to Suppress BP. (at least on my Rye/TTTF home lawn)

    https://www.growthproducts.com/pdfs/Turf_Companion_Biological_Fungicide.pdf



    At LEAST 2 gallons per 1,000 ft2 water + Bio fungicide per Label. No low volume applications with these Biological products.
     
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,443

    Also, try to get them to accept an overseed (fall is best) with a better quality brown patch resistant variety of tall fescue--like Fourth Millennium.

    http://turfmerchants.com/grass-seed-product/4th-millennium/

    Big seed companies are wholesale only--you have to deal with the regional salesman. 50 pound bags only. But remember you can tell the customer--you are the only source of that super-high-quality brown patch-resistant seed.
     
  4. phasthound

    phasthound LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,998

    The best way to prevent brown patch or large patch in the home lawn is by following good lawn care practices. This is much easier and less expensive than the use of fungicides and can be very effective.

    • Avoid high rates of nitrogen fertilizer on cool-season grasses in the late spring and summer. Avoid high nitrogen rates on warm-season grasses in mid to late fall or in early spring. The disease-causing fungus readily attacks the lush growth of grass which nitrogen promotes. Avoid fast-release forms of nitrogen fertilizer.
    • Irrigate grass only when needed and to a depth of 4 to 6 inches (generally 1 inch of irrigation water per week), but do not subject the lawn to drought conditions. Water early in the morning. This disease can spread fast when free moisture is present, especially greater than 10 hours.
    • Avoid spreading the disease to other areas. Remove clippings if the weather is warm and moist to prevent spread to other areas during mowing.
    • Keep lawns mowed on a regular basis to the proper height for the grass species you are growing. Lower than optimum mowing height can increase disease severity. Do not mow fescue lawns shorter than 2-½ inches high, nor higher than 3-½ inches. Mow centipede at 1-½ inches high.
    • Provide good drainage for both surface and subsurface areas. Correct soil compaction by core aeration. Prevent excessive thatch buildup.
    • Have the soil tested, and apply lime according to test recommendations. Disease may be more severe if the soil pH is less than 6.0.
    http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/lawns/hgic2150.html
     
    hort101 likes this.
  5. mdloops

    mdloops LawnSite Member
    Messages: 117

    Totally agree that all of these practices should be followed.

    In CT, this year has been awful for disease and most lawns have something. There has been constant rain, especially light rain that starts in the afternoon and continues for 12 or more hours. On the plus side, non-irrigated lawns have not gone dormant.

    50-60% of my lawn is KBG (unknown cultivar) with the rest being a regional mix called Dark and Durable which is comprised of the following:
    I have been battling brown patch and red thread since late spring.

     
    hort101 likes this.

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