Dixie chopper Hydro oil change

Therapydoc

LawnSite Member
Location
Southeast
Did a search and couldn’t find any info other than take it to the dealer. Our local dealer is not one I do business with due to poor reputation so I’ll be doing my own work. Just bought a xt3300 2006 model. To change the hydro oil, do you drain from oil filters or take the hose fitting off coming from reservoir to drain then remove filter to keep it clean. (Pic 4). They didn’t seem to make hydro oil changes very easy but engine has a remote hose to drain.

there looks to be a plug on the bottom of each hydro also, does that come off to drain? (Pic 2 the but facing downward in pic )

To get air out of the system I need to open bypass slightly. Is it the brown nut on top of each hydro? There’s what looks to be a bolt screwed down into the hut. (Circled in black) My understanding is loosen 1/2 turn and operate hydros back and forth a few times and then tighten and top off fluid.

any other input is appreciated


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That Guy Gary

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
SW Idaho
Most of the fluid is in the reservoir. I think those machines have White pumps, no longer made.

I would clean up around the filters and just drain out what you can from there. Prime the new filters before installing. This is what's recommended for many machines.

That nut is probably the bypass but I can't say for certain.
 

BigFish

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
chesapeake, va
there looks to be a plug on the bottom of each hydro also, does that come off to drain? (Pic 2 the but facing downward in pic )

To get air out of the system I need to open bypass slightly. Is it the brown nut on top of each hydro? There’s what looks to be a bolt screwed down into the hut. (Circled in black) My understanding is loosen 1/2 turn and operate hydros back and forth a few times and then tighten and top off fluid.
Not a drain plug ! Ya don't wanna drain the pumps anyway !

Clean the dirt etc from around the tank cap area.
As was mentioned, should be able to drain by removing filters.
Ya wanna clean the area around the filter mounting really good. I would use a couple cans of spray carb cleaner ( the kind with a straw ) and comp. air. Messy job !

Yes that is the bypass valve.
The nut is the jam/locknut ( big hex ) for the valve screw ( little hex ).
Clean around it before ya do anything :
Loosen the big jam/lock nut.
Loosen the center screw/valve half turn or so. Do not back it out all the way !
Snug it down when done purging.
Snug down the locknut.
 
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DIXIECHOPPER KID

LawnSite Member
Location
Florida
The valve to release the hydro pressure is a hex with a hole through the side (at least on my machine). Should be around a 5/8. I fill up the new filters with oil when before I install them. This may help reduce the amount of air in them. I use 15w40 in the hydro tank like recommended.
 

weve

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Central Illinois
I always used an oil extractor to remove the oil from the reservoir and then removed the filters. Never had a problem. I ran Dixie's for 23 years.
 

weve

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Central Illinois
This info on changing the Dixie Chopper hydro filters came from another LawnSite member who received it from the Dixie Chopper factory in 2011.

"You will first drain the oil from the tank. To do this you will need to evacuate the oil out of the tank, or loosen the filters to let the tank drain. Once this is done, replace the filters with new OEM filters. Next you will add the oil to the tank (15W40 Lucas Magnum Motor Oil). With this all being done you will then proceed to elevate the rear wheels off the ground. Then you will then open the bypass valves. The bypass valve will either be on the front of each pump and they will be a hex head style fitting with a hole through them, or they will be on the top of each pump. If they are on the top of the pumps, they will have a jam nut with a small hex head style fitting. You will loosen the bypass valve about a turn and a half. After this is done you will then proceed to starting the engine and letting the motor run at an idle. Stroke the levers forward and reverse to let the air purge from the system. Once you notice the air pockets are coming out of the hoses, you will then tighten the bypass valves. The oil going through the system should have little to no air in the system at this point. After the bypass valves are tightened you will then check the oil level in the system. The oil level should be level with the baffle inside the top of the tank."
 

BigFish

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
chesapeake, va
...Then you will then open the bypass valves. The bypass valve will either be on the front of each pump and they will be a hex head style fitting with a hole through them, or they will be on the top of each pump. If they are on the top of the pumps, they will have a jam nut with a small hex head style fitting. You will loosen the bypass valve about a turn and a half....
Good info !
 

Drillman

LawnSite Member
Location
Champaign, IL
I too have a White pump on mine and cant for the life of me find the bypass on it, I've looked on the top, bottom, sides and there is no hex bolt with a hole or a nut covering an Allen bolt. It is a Caterpillar industrial diesel and 2012 Dixie Chopper 74"
 

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weve

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Central Illinois
I have white pumps on my 2006 Dixie diesel. "The dump valves on the White pumps are the 17mm nut around an 8mm headed bolt on the bottom side of the pump near where the control levers are." My son has my Dixie in Mississippi now. As I remember on the left pump the valve was toward the back and on the right pump it was toward the front of the mower. The 17mm nut is a locking nut. After loosening it, turn out the 8mm nut as needed. It is the dump valve. Don't forget to tighten the locking nut. I hauled my Dixie 40 miles on a trailer and lost the 17mm locking nut. See the photo in Post #1 that is circled with a black marker. Hope this helps.
 

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