Do these Oregon 396-730 G6 Gator blades still have some life left in em?

Mike Hawk

LawnSite Member
Tulsa OK
Home owner here. 3 acres of Bermuda, 1.5 hr per mow. I'm finally getting into the game of learning how to sharpen my blades and the importance of balancing. Before I'd just remove/replace with new blades every season. Now that I see the huge dollar savings AND cut benefits of sharpening I'm a believer, even at home owner usage levels.

Got the Oregon 42-047 Precision Blade ball bearing Balancer this season. I wanted to see how bad my angle ground flapper G6s were. What a world of difference. My Z930M now starts up easier and doesn't sound like a rock crusher nor does it vibrate as much. Definitely sold on this small investment in a higher end balancer, even as a home owner.

Anyway, here's my previous set of G6s from last season. Does the cutting edge have to be a straight line parallel to the back line when resharpening them? Other than the sails breaking off/deforming, when is it time to retire a set of blades? Talk about duller than dull! If I had kept up with sharpening them thru out the season, would they wear straighter, instead of that funky kick out at the tip?

Although I hate buying single use tools, I think I'll probably take the plunge on the
Oregon 88-025 Blade Grinder Economy, 1/3 HP since I can't keep the correct angle with my angle grinder worth a hoot.

Oh and some other anecdotal evidence, I'm going back to the OEM High lift TCU15881 blades. While the G6s are boss on leaf piles in the fall, I felt like the OEM high lifts gave a better overall cut and shot/spread the clippings out better.
Last edited:

Ridin' Green

LawnSite Fanatic
Those can be fixed up enough for a little more use if you know what you are doing, but by the time you did get the angle corrected, and the cutting edge straightened out, you'd almost be wasting your time really as the outer lift tab is mostly worn away too from the looks of things. The most important thing when sharpening is to try to keep the 30 degree bevel to the cutting edge, maintain a 1/64 flat to the cutting edge, and make the end of the cutting edge where it meets the end of the blade be as square a corner as you can get because mower blades cut in the same manner a saw blade tooth does.

No, the cutting edge does not have to be parallel to the back. In fact, some manuals for certain machines even show grinding the cutting edge at a straight angle from the center hole end of the edge to the outer end, and suggest tossing them when there is only about 1/3 of the original flat bottom area at the outer end of the blade.

That Guy Gary

LawnSite Gold Member
SW Idaho
The cutting edge doesn't need to be parallel with the back of the blade. The outside will wear faster since that's where all the action is. If you try to keep it parallel with the back you'll have to grind off too much material near the center.

You want the edge itself to be straight, sharpening with a slight taper to the outside will achieve it while removing the least amt of material.

This image is a good example of what most manufacturers recommend:


Top Forums