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Discussion in 'Florida Lawn Care Forum' started by Sprinkler Buddy, Oct 31, 2013.
Thanks. It works well, time will tell how long it holds up.
It never fails that people have a few pest prone plants in areas not convenient to unroll a hose to. So I have another engine drive backpack reserved for that purpose. Hike over there and start shooting.
We are flat as a pool table here and can drag hose almost anywhere but I do use the battery backpack sometimes for that. I have one set up with double cone nozzles just for that and on highest setting works pretty well.
Much better than that stainless steel and brass backpack I used to use. Imagine hiking up and down with that. Oh, right and having to pump like crazy to make it work. I do enough hiking that batteries are not something I would bet the farm on. Rather have an engine. I use ceramic disc core nozzles on a double swivel and a two handed tree gun for high stuff.
So dinotefuran works, what about imidacloprid?
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Imidacloprid is not mobile enough in the plant. Takes too long to go up. It might work as a preventative, however dinotefuran + a knockdown spray is how I do mine. The knockdown spray includes oil and an IGR. Most insecticides save for organophosphates are useless against Asian Cycad Scale.
Forgive the dumb questions, I do structural pest, but am getting licensed for lawn and ornamental. Primarily to treat sagos. Last year I saw a few, but this year it is every sago I see has them, so I have to start doing it.
Is it better to inject? I can do that easy with an electric backpack and quick connect to a termite rod. To do a standard 3 foot sago what is the normal amount of safari and quantity of water to use? I've read the label but can't quite get my head around the specifics.
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A soil drench with a five gallon bucket is very easy and works really good!
There is a dose listed per foot of plant height. The question of injecting depends on your soil and what is around your target plant. If I have ground covers, other border plants, etc around the target plant. my preference goes towards injecting. If the plant is in clay or other tight soil, injecting is better. If it is on mostly sand and there is nothing around it, I drench or apply a low volume band around the plant. A hedge of some kind growing on sand is a candidate for a banded application. Note that the absorbing roots on most plants including Sago palm is in the first few inches of soil and not more than 8" from the trunk. There are also absorbing roots directly under plants. No need to go deep or far from the trunk of a plant.
We have very clayey soil so if you put much volume on the soil surface it starts running away. That's good info on the shape and size of the roots. Thanks. Part of my confusion is how to measure the height of a sago. Often the trunk will be 6 inches high and the fronds go up 3 feet, so would you apply the dose for the trunk height or frond height?