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Does anyone else use a small truck for route work?

28K views 63 replies 24 participants last post by  minilawn 
#1 ·
I've been reading bigger is better, always talking about "growing" into your business. Does anyone else like the idea of keeping money in their pockets and growing the business?

I've been using this rig for 3 years 40k miles in that time. 19mpg towing. It's a 4cyl 5spd work model 2001 s10. Maintenance has been regular, amsoil once a year, fuel filters etc.
:weightlifter:

 
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#3 ·
my first truck was a mini toyota, pulled a tandem (with it's own brakes..lol) even pallets of sod when I first started. But that was in a very flat area. Those with hills won't appreciate being pushed by their trailers into intersections, etc. Small trucks are great for irrigation, gardening, small area mowing (with mowers in the truck) like urban downtown things where parking is a great big issue. Even pest control with small sprayers.

For trailer work, like what you're doing here, the low cost entry point may end up with higher costs in brakes, accelerated wear of the engine and transmission (particularly) and perhaps even fuel economy suffering by needing to pull at a higher rpm than say a full sized, 2wd small block v-8 (my personal lawn truck preference) would get doing the same routes. Most will find that the small truck won't be that much lower priced than a standard 1/2 ton 2wd work truck, even without fleet pricing, and the larger truck will likely last far longer, giving you a lower cost to own for this situation.
 
#4 ·
That's how I first started, a 99 Chevy s10 4 banger 5 speed. I'm thinking about buying it back from my buddy, great for this biz for small and medium jobs.
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#7 ·
Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to see if the tone has changed with some folks.

Here's to anyone thinking about going with the smaller set-up:

$3500 purchase price w 63k miles.

This is getting 19mpg with the trailer every week. High twenties empty on highway. Great for running errands.

Wearing out really fast??

Brake pads were replaced as soon as I bought, new shocks, new alternator, fuel filter, clutch, and timing chain. In the last 40k miles. At 100k I did the timing chain ($75) and throwout bearing (decided to just to the whole clutch kit while I was in there) What I found when I took the old clutch off was about 50%. It was wearing normally for a 12 year old, 100k mile vehicle. Timing chain was purely preventative maintenance, I just know that's a weak point on this engine, (2.2 vortech).

So in 3 years, and 40k miles.
Shocks - $90
Rotors & Pads - $150
Alternator - $120
Clutch kit - $500
Fuel Filter - $50
Timing Chain -$75

Total $985

And it runs like new!

I would love to see and hear more about your guy's rigs that work for your business and why!
 
#9 ·
I kind of split the difference. I have a colorado with the 5cyl. and 4x4. Cheapest crew cab I could find (babies) and it still gets 19 to 20 pulling my dual axle mowing rig. At the same time it tows the 12 foot dump trailer fully loaded. doesnt sink and the drag isnt terrible. The S-10 zr2 or zr5s would do about the same I imagine (with a little suspention bolstering). Point is, Unless I go way above where my work is now I dont have to consider anything bigger for several more years.
 
#10 ·
I use a Tacoma, because that's what I had when I decided to start this. I bought a trailer that I could pull with it and equipment that fit the trailer. At some point, I'll upgrade, but this one works in our relatively flat area. The funny thing is when I unhook the trailer and drive the truck by itself, it feels like a hot rod :laugh:

 
#13 ·
19 to 20 in the summer with my 05 F150. 16 to 17 in the winter. My 05 has a 4.2 V6. I like the S10's, Frontiers, Tacoma's and the Ranger. If you're careful and you don't overload it, yes it can be economical and trouble free.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to see if the tone has changed with some folks.

Here's to anyone thinking about going with the smaller set-up:

$3500 purchase price w 63k miles.

This is getting 19mpg with the trailer every week. High twenties empty on highway. Great for running errands.

Wearing out really fast??

Brake pads were replaced as soon as I bought, new shocks, new alternator, fuel filter, clutch, and timing chain. In the last 40k miles. At 100k I did the timing chain ($75) and throwout bearing (decided to just to the whole clutch kit while I was in there) What I found when I took the old clutch off was about 50%. It was wearing normally for a 12 year old, 100k mile vehicle. Timing chain was purely preventative maintenance, I just know that's a weak point on this engine, (2.2 vortech).

So in 3 years, and 40k miles.
Shocks - $90
Rotors & Pads - $150
Alternator - $120
Clutch kit - $500
Fuel Filter - $50
Timing Chain -$75

Total $985

And it runs like new!

I would love to see and hear more about your guy's rigs that work for your business and why!
If you had a mechanic do that, the price would have doubled (at least), so you didn't account for your labor in that equation. Once you do, you're finding that you're putting about half or more of what you bought the truck for into maintenance. That's expensive to own as a percentage.

I ran under a Ford fleet account, so ended up with a lot of Fords. F250-F-350, most 4wd that did snow duty during the winter, so they are not comparable to your setup.

However, I did have trucks that were 2wd half ton setups meant for pulling tandem axle 16 foot trailers with a pair of riders. A standard cab, small block v-8 (the smallest, whatever that is/was is how I would buy all my 2wds, regardless of brand), automatic with vinyl floors and AC, newer generation silverados (I bought a few of these..they actually were much better performers for this duty than the Fords) would pull that load like nothing was there. Fuel mileage, 20-22, depending on the driver and the amount of hills in their particular route. Maintenance on a new truck, oil change, air filter, tires and maybe brake pads, once again, depending on the driver. Would run trucks to 150k, then swap them out.

Shop a block from the freeway, so many miles into routes were freeway miles. In this particular market, elevation changes can be 3000 feet during a route. Being pushed by a trailer is a definite reality.

I like small trucks for the other reasons I stated and still own my original Toy, which sits in my home garage, driven a few times per year.

Account not only for your current duties when you select a vehicle, but also what you plan to do with it as you grow. I'd hate to think that someone would turn down opportunities because they couldn't pull out a bigger trailer.
 
#18 ·
lindblom -

Are you getting that mpg towing in town?
Both. I live outside of town, so I am on the highway before getting anywhere.
i'd be scared to death pulling 2000 lbs with a truck that only weighs 3000. i drove a 2.2 s10 back in high school and can't imagine towing with the thing, it was SLOW.
the capacity of an S10 with a 2.2 and manual transmission was 3500 pounds. Trailer brakes would be a wise investment.

There is no reason to us a 3/4 ton or 1 ton to pull a 12 foot trailer with two walk-behind mowers.
 
#19 ·
Here is what we use, we started with the Nissan and now have the F350.
Trucks: 1999 F350, 7.3 ltr,cc,drw,lb,350k miles running on B-100 fuel for crew
1993 Nissan, single cab, shortbed, 4cyl., 266k miles, for parts and repair work.

Trailers: 2004 Featherlite 102"x 288" Enclosed tandem, fully loaded.
2003 Suncoast 102"x 216" open,tandem axle, our pallet/mulch hauler.
2009 All Pro 33yd tri axle 22.5k dump trailer.
1988 Fruehauf 72"x96" enclosed single axle.

The F350 is for the tandems and tri axle trailers.
The Nissan is for the little Fruehauf single axle.

All maintenance performed in our shop by me, just because its easier to do it right the first time.
All maintenance is based on hours and recorded.

Before you go out and spend alot of money on big trucks and trailers remember that if you can't be more efficient by doing so, don't spend the money.
I would rather drive our Nissan and tow my little Fruehauf any day.
Run that S-10 as your primary until it becomes inefficient due to your work load, not for the desire to keep up with the companies with the nice big shiny stuff.
Take care of your rig and keep it nice and clean.

Set money aside and try to buy whatever you need in cash, stay out of debt and run lean.
As you grow your business it will pay off.

An older landscaper said to me once that "The truck and trailer don't cut grass."
I thought it was funny at the time, but I understand it now.
Just my opinion, others may differ.
Good luck and work smart!
 
#20 ·
An older landscaper said to me once that "The truck and trailer don't cut grass."
I thought it was funny at the time, but I understand it now.
Just my opinion, others may differ.
I agree with this to a point, but at the same time if you don't have a safe reliable truck to pull your equipment around you ain't going to be cutting any grass either.
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#21 ·
I've heard that you need a big truck so you can drive fast... I don't drive fast, so that doesn't bother me.

As for stopping, in 3 years I've had my fair share of idiots pull out in front of me. This truck stops my ZTR and Walkbehind with various hand-helds on a dime... no pun intended.

:weightlifter:
 
#22 ·
I've heard that you need a big truck so you can drive fast... I don't drive fast, so that doesn't bother me.

As for stopping, in 3 years I've had my fair share of idiots pull out in front of me. This truck stops my ZTR and Walkbehind with various hand-helds on a dime... no pun intended.

:weightlifter:
Personally, I like the extra safety margain with a set of trailer brakes. I've done it without brakes, I don't care to make it a habit.
 
#23 ·
If you had a mechanic do that, the price would have doubled (at least), so you didn't account for your labor in that equation. Once you do, you're finding that you're putting about half or more of what you bought the truck for into maintenance. That's expensive to own as a percentage.
If he was putting that kind of money into it every year, then yes, that would be expensive. But what he did was a 100,000 mile freshen up. That work won't have to be done again for another 100,000 miles if the truck lasts that long.
 
#24 ·
If he was putting that kind of money into it every year, then yes, that would be expensive. But what he did was a 100,000 mile freshen up. That work won't have to be done again for another 100,000 miles if the truck lasts that long.
Exactly, I think all vehicles require maintenance at their half-life.

I also want to stress the fact that this was preventative, keep it on the up and up, over prepared maintenance :dancing:

Thats how I do things:drinkup:
 
#25 ·
If he was putting that kind of money into it every year, then yes, that would be expensive. But what he did was a 100,000 mile freshen up. That work won't have to be done again for another 100,000 miles if the truck lasts that long.
The key here is THAT work. But since those are not the only aging parts on the vehicle, it's silly to think that will be the end of major repairs. A bad water pump that warps heads when it overheats, a loss of compression on the motor, suspension problems, a rear end diff failing, even the gears in that manual stripping out will all be eventualities.

Even if you keep front end costs lower by doing the labor yourself, you still have to account for the true costs. Unless your time is worth nothing. A day working on the vehicle is a production day lost.

That's the measure.

and yes, most are using trucks that are complete and total overkill for the job and are being inefficient in the other direction, but you can be equally so (inefficient) by making choices going in the opposite direction.

When I would see jacked up, fully loaded trucks being used for lawn crews, I'd make it a point to follow them to their next job and leave my card. I know automatically higher cost clowns when I see them and that's like a flashing light with circus music playing.. :)
 
#26 ·
I've heard that you need a big truck so you can drive fast... I don't drive fast, so that doesn't bother me.

As for stopping, in 3 years I've had my fair share of idiots pull out in front of me. This truck stops my ZTR and Walkbehind with various hand-helds on a dime... no pun intended.

:weightlifter:
Something else to keep in mind when you run no trailer brakes is the trailer jack-knifing when you hit the brakes hard and the truck and trailer getting out of alignment.

I was at Ft. Bragg when 3 soldiers were killed for this very reason. The truck slammed on the brakes skidded a little, got out of alignment and the trailer swung around next to the truck and turned it over in a ditch. Someone had forgotten to hook up the trailer brake air lines.

Just because you have a truck with brakes good enough to stop it and the trailer doesn't necessarily make it safe.
 
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