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Drainage under paver patio

33K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  DVS Hardscaper 
#1 ·
We're looking to have a patio installed and I've had a couple of quotes. Some have said we need drainage pipes under the patio, others have said the sand and gravel will do enough...
What are your thoughts? Attached are pictures of today during the rain....

I just want to know if I should spend the money on drainage or if it's not necessary.

Thanks!!
 
#7 ·
Sand and class 5 should be enough for drainage. Just make sure the patio itself has drainage and that start with the class 5 and a laser level. example: Where you want all the water to drain should be the lowest point around an inch. And at the other end of the patio should be at 3 inches and dropping a 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch every 10 feet down to that inch I mentioned earlier!
 
#8 ·
Sand and class 5 should be enough for drainage. Just make sure the patio itself has drainage and that start with the class 5 and a laser level. example: Where you want all the water to drain should be the lowest point around an inch. And at the other end of the patio should be at 3 inches and dropping a 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch every 10 feet down to that inch I mentioned earlier!
So there's no need for actual drains under the patio with the gutter downspouts tied it (to get the gutter water off of the patio).
 
#9 ·
It would not be a bad idea if you did. I have installed floor drains into patio's usually only when I can not run water off of patio to one area or are doing a pool job so no watershed goes into the pool. You can slope patio obv away from house have a drainage run go from end to end and tie two spouts into it from house and either day light it or dump it into a drywell.
 
#10 · (Edited)
You do not fix standing water issues with "sand" and "gravel". Oh my heavens.

Water issues are remedied:
1) proper grading. Sloping the ground accordingly to ensure positive run-off.
2) drywells. And perforated flexible drain tubing
3) drain boxes such as Duraslope

I'm on a jobsite lookin at your pic on a 2x3.5" screen. I'll take a look again tonight on another computer and will advise intelligently.

Also need more info from you. the pics are of the sideyard. Are you putting the pato on the side? How bout pics of where the patio is to go? Along with pics of the lowest point of the yard? Is the front lower than the back?? Where does the water go now? Please elaborate. Also, we're all busy, it's hard to sit here and envision your overall plans and site. The More pics and details - the better feedback you'll receive :)

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#11 ·
So there's no need for actual drains under the patio with the gutter downspouts tied it (to get the gutter water off of the patio).
I just built a paver patio, and with the proper drainage you should have no problems. Where the water runs off the patio there is a french drain that I also installed. We have had heavy rain since I built it 3 weeks ago and it seems to be fine.
 
#12 · (Edited)
You need to be careful with drywells by dwellings. Concentrated water in the drywell could find its way to the basement. If you do a drywell, you need to pipe the water far from the dwelling.
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#13 ·
By looking at the pictures I can see water travel from on end of the house to the other my advice for a long lasting installation catch the water before it gets to the patio, catch basin or channel drain, run solid pipes under the patio, connect gutters and daylight to the other end far away from the house , how big of a catch basin? well you have to measure the area and calculate how much run off will be, but I can assure you it needs some type of drainage.
 
#22 ·
It's just 4"s. No time frame. That dictates the size or volume of the drywell.
So, in other words, if you had a 1,000 sq ft patio then you would need a drywell of at least 334 sq ft. which would be one 4' tall x 8' diameter precast drywell.
Its obviously less if you were taking the runoff from an area other then a roof or paved surface.
 
#23 ·
You do not fix standing water issues with "sand" and "gravel". Oh my heavens.

Water issues are remedied:
1) proper grading. Sloping the ground accordingly to ensure positive run-off.
2) drywells. And perforated flexible drain tubing
3) drain boxes such as Duraslope

I'm on a jobsite lookin at your pic on a 2x3.5" screen. I'll take a look again tonight on another computer and will advise intelligently.

Also need more info from you. the pics are of the sideyard. Are you putting the pato on the side? How bout pics of where the patio is to go? Along with pics of the lowest point of the yard? Is the front lower than the back?? Where does the water go now? Please elaborate. Also, we're all busy, it's hard to sit here and envision your overall plans and site. The More pics and details - the better feedback you'll receive :)

.

.
Posted via Mobile Device
This is the backyard. We plan to remove the landscape timbers and mulch and put the pavers right up to the house, the full length of the back of the house and then out to the fence (leaving about 18-24" of space to the fence for landscaping). The lowest point is probably right in the middle where the puddle is and then the plan is to drain it from the far end of the pic back towards the close end of the pic and then down a little slope towards a creek....
 
#25 ·
I usually don't get home until after 5:30pm...what company are you with?
A little secret:

Make sure you have a cold beer for the contractor!!

And no! They don't wanna meet and pet any yippy yappy rat dogs!
 
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