Drystack corners - butt, weave or miter?

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by Garyl53, Jun 24, 2008.

  1. Garyl53

    Garyl53 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    I have a corner I need to create on a drystack flagstone wall. What is the best way to handle the corner?
    Just butt the two side walls together?
    Alternate stones to try to create a weave of the corner stones?
    Or cut the stones in a miter?

    It seams like a weave would be the strongest to tie them together but dealing with different size stones may be a problem.
    Thanks for any help.
  2. bigviclbi

    bigviclbi LawnSite Senior Member
    from nj
    Messages: 900

  3. PlatinumLandCon

    PlatinumLandCon LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,315

    Weave, no questions asked. Otherwise you have a definite weak point.
  4. Garyl53

    Garyl53 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    Thanks! I haven't done a corner before so I wanted to check that there wasn't some trick that I didn't know about.
  5. 4Russl5

    4Russl5 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 160

    Weave, 1 over 2 and 2 over 1, length in, consistent batter.... you should check out those links I gave you for dry stone walling. Particularly the Dry Stone Walling Association of Great Brittan. They have pdf downloads to conservation specs. for most of your questions. Also great for using to educate clients on why to build in this style.
    If you butt them together you create a 'running seam' making a weak spot in the wall. Although a 'running seam' is used in Europe to denote property lines in stone fences.
    Also corners take more time than walling, typically corners add more cost to projects, as well as other features.
  6. getthenet

    getthenet LawnSite Member
    Messages: 142

    Russ, would you mind giving us those links you are talking about for dry stone walling. We do alot of drystack stonework and we could use anything to help with ideas. thanks
  7. 4Russl5

    4Russl5 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 160

    -The Dry Stone Conservancy, in Kentucky.... they teach classes and are the only US group that is teaching to build to standards as well as levels of skil.
    I am a level 1 mason through these guys, and completed their 'Boot Camp' last Fall. This was worth the time and effort. I will go back this Fall to test for level 2 as well as bring my lead guy to get certified for level 1.
    -The Dry Stone Walling Association of Great Brittan.... They also teach, and do all the other stuff, but on their web site you down load pdf's about how to build Fences, Retaining Walls, Corners, etc.... I have found theses helpful to educate my clients as well as give to my employees to read up on and stick to the rules.
    -The Stone Foundation.... a group of masons and landscapers, sculptors, etc.. all who have a reveance for stone. They do great workshops and the gatherings are great for networking, learning, and making new friends.
    I can not speak highly enough of the group.....
    -The Dry Stone Walling Asssociation of Canada..... John and Dean who run this program teach workshops all over North America. They are both highly skilled masons that I would recomend taking a workshop from either of them.
    -Marenakos...... a stone yard that supplies and fabricates, does an incredible workshop every year, Stonefest. If you are in the Seattle area this is worth the time and money. The people who are teaching and running the show are incredibly giving and good teachers.

    These are my resources. I do at least two workshops a year and find there is always something to learn.....
    I hope these are helpful.
  8. getthenet

    getthenet LawnSite Member
    Messages: 142

    thanks Russ, some of those pics on Hillsboro are about 2 hrs from here. We do alot of drystacked natural stone, but not freestanding like that.
  9. 4Russl5

    4Russl5 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 160

    You know I did not mention anything about some of the other details which will make a differance to your end product Gary.
    -First being 'foundation' stones.... to support you wall
    -Second being 'through' stones at 18" in height, every three feet
    -Third being 'cap' stones... which I think I mentioned before.
    There are a small pile of rules which are easier to break than follow.
    If you build to the DSC's specifications you litterally have a wall/fence that will last over a hundred years. I rebuilt walls at the Shaker Village in Kentucky that were aover 120 years old, fences and retaing walls. Most did not have adequate foundation stones or throughs. Those two details add 50 years or so together to the life of the wall. They had Perchon horses/cattle/sheep on both sides of these 4' tall fences. What makes most fail is nature, trees and such.

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