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Echo PE 230, Carb not passing fuel to engine

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13K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  JohnElpers  
T
#1 ·
This unit was purchased used a few years ago and ran well. I have not used it for a couple of years (it is a back-up unit), it was stored in a dry storage building.
I was going to use for this winter and lubed and was preparing for the use.
It would not start, I checked and had good spark so next pulled plug to see if wet fouled, it was dry. So I installed a new NGK plug, good spark, no start, still no fuel on plug. Always us Stabil in all fuel.
Removed carb but it looked fine, no evidence of varnish or rust/corrosion on anything. Replaced hoses. The diaphragm that controls the needle was hard and had a new one that was similar and installed. It ran but was leaking gas, appeared to be coming from tank grommet.
Purchased carb kit and repower tank kit,.
removed carb and disassembled it as far as it would come apart, cleaned all passages with carb cleaner and compressed air, everything looked like new. Installed new parts in carb but not tank. blew air backwards through fuel filter, seemed fine. Grommet not leaking.

Primer will pump fuel through it fine but engine does not pull fuel into it.
I have worked on carbs for years with no issues but this one has me.
Have since removed carb back to bare "block", looks like new but same issue.
:dizzy::dizzy::dizzy:
Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
 
T
#4 ·
Carb not available and tank leak issue was not tank, the "make shift" diaphragm was a bit to small.
Even the main body of carb is no longer available.
That was the Initial plan, the complete carb, or the body, but kit was only thing still available :dizzy:
 
M
#6 ·
That's a Zama RB-K66. You're saying the carburetor is not receiving fuel, correct?

The first thing to check is to make sure the carb is getting its needed crankcase pulse. The crankcase pulse is what operates the fuel pump diaphragm. If you look at the mounting flange where the carb bolts to the cylinder, you'll see two threaded bolt holes as well as at least one hole that channels the crankcase pulse to the carburetor. Often times people will mount gaskets out of alignment which results in the crankcase pulse getting blocked off and subsequently, the carb doesn't get the crankcase pulse it needs to pump fuel. Either that or one of the gaskets will be missing the crankcase pulse hole. Often times on Echo power equipment, the order of assembly will go:

[mounting gasket]>>>[insulator block]>>>[mounting gasket]>>>[carburetor]>>>[air cleaner].

The carb insulator block has a hole drilled into it for channeling the crankcase pulse from the cylinder to the carb. You have to make sure that the holes for BOTH GASKETS and the INSULATOR BLOCK are ALIGNED so that the crankcase pulse flows through ALL THREE OF THEM.

Another common issue is that if the piston rings are worn out to the point where there's not enough crankcase pressure being produced to create a crankcase pulse, the the carb won't be able to pump fuel because of that reason either.

Do you have the RB series service manual? If not, I can send it to you if you'd like.
 
T
#7 ·
Merkava_4 your input is Very much appreciated.

I only removed the carb from the insolator block and checked the mounting bolts for tightness, thinking I may be losing vacuum there,
these carbs are very simple and in this case can be VERY frustrating.
I will go back and verify that everything from theengine block out is correct.
The engine seems to have very good compression (hard pulses when pull starting rope)

Thanks for your incite, I have had the carb completely apart at least 10 times to only look at the same clean like new parts hoping to find something out of place or clogged, only to assemble and have the same issue.
At one point I did get it to run at full throttle with choke on, then could release choke, but if throttle was less that 3/4, it would die, further confirming the lack of signal to the carb, I think.
Tom.....................
 
M
#8 ·
The engine won't run at all if the carb is not receiving its crank pulse.

Another thing to check is the metering lever. This is what the service manual says: "Free end of metering lever is about flush with the gasket flange of the carburetor body." If it's not flush, you can bend it until it is.

And then there's the Main Nozzle. The Main Nozzle should be adjusted with the carb at full throttle. You'll have to remove the tamper proof plug to get to it. You would adjust it the same way you would adjust a high speed mixture needle.

Let me send you the info. I'll send you both the Zama and the Walbro service manuals. If you have a Gmail address, it'll be easy.
 
H
#9 · (Edited)
Hang on a minute...
Don't get me wrong but my confidence in problem assesment isn't very high right now.
There's reason for that...
Zama RB-K66 you say?

See, I find it kind of frustrating when all I have to do is type that in Google and first result:
http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Replaces-A021000380-A021000720-A021000721/dp/B00APK36GK

Not a few threads here just like that, tells me right away someone didn't do their homework.
When you failed to post model and serial numbers that was my first clue.

So before you go spending $42 ...

Will it run on a shot of starting fluid?

Because that's the next thing I would be testing, long before I'd start on any other ideas.
If it runs on starting fluid, then yes, most likely your problem is the carburetor.
If it doesn't run on starting fluid, you can probably start looking elsewhere.
 
T
#10 ·
Thanks for the info. I had not looked anywhere other that on the echo parts site. I thought this would be an easy fix, as they usually are.
To your question, I now can consistently start it with choke and full throttle, it will only run ant near or WOT, anything less it will die.
I wonder if I will be any better off with an aftermarket version of a Chinese carb???:laugh:
BTW the unit is a PE 230, #05006985, Zama carb #K66A , 26A
 
T
#12 ·
Thank you, I did.
Was able to purchase a new carb off amazon and issue completely resolved. Must be blockage in the main body of carb, although could blow air through all accessible passages and appeared as new, :hammerhead:
 
T
#16 ·
Yep, only adjustment is idle speed. bolted it on, primed, started bout 2nd 3rd pull and ran like a champ. I spent $s on the kit and at least 5 hours, removing, dissembling, inspecting and re-installing, over 2-3 days, and still wouldnt run with out full throttle :hammerhead:.
 
D
#19 ·
Kenb2920 said:
That's great to know. I have about 2 hours into mine taking apart and putting back together a couple times before I saw a small tear in the diaphragm. The part kit (just the soft pieces) showed like $6 but another $6 in shipping.
Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...
If you've got a tear in the diaphragm, it isn't going to run with that. I'd clean the carb well and replace all the soft pieces with the $6 kit. I'm betting it'll run fine after doing that.
 
#25 ·
ed2hess said:
It is normal screw driver tip......it is small in diameter to fit down in the holes so the stihl screwdrivers can be easily ground to fit. The easiest place to get them is from dealer echo prodes several good tool to dealer for sale.
Click to expand...
No kidding, that's good to know. I will have to look into that. Thank you for the tip.
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