Engine cutting out

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by Spence, Jan 19, 2001.

  1. Spence

    Spence LawnSite Member
    Messages: 62

    I have a 83' Chevy Silverado K10 with a rebuilt 350. It has started cutting out when driving down the road, sometimes for a few seconds. It completely loses power for a few seconds, comes back, loses it again, and so on. It doesn't do it while its changing gears, its when you are cruising. (not while using cruise control, just driving.)It did this once before when the intake was leaking, but its not leaking. I just had a new carb. installed and I thought that was the problem, but its not. The carb. did need replacing anyway. What would be causing this? I was thinking that it may be the fuel pump. Or am I wrong?
  2. 4x4k20

    4x4k20 LawnSite Member
    from ga
    Messages: 148

    it sounds like your rite replace the fuel pump it dosent cost much just a pain in the a?? to replace.but it aint that bad
  3. 85w/350

    85w/350 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 244

    most likely the fuel pump and like 4x4k20 said fuel pumps are really cheap anywheres you look to buy one...just use caution when losening the fuel line not to break it...also I hope that you have a metal fuel line. I broke my fuel line already trying to wiggle it lose and they dont sell prebent new lines so I figured rubber hose would work well...it did until I'd take like 2hr trips when the engine would get warm the fuel in the rubber hose would evaporate before it reached the carb and it would cause dry lock and kill out...sounds kinda like what you are experiencing...so I bought a new metal fuel line and I borrowed a pipe bending tool and made my own new one...it is a pain if you need to pull the fuel line its worth taking the alternator out. Oh yeah while i am telling you what not to do...when pulling the fuel pump be sure and notate which bolt comes from which hole in the block, one bolt is slightly longer than the other if you mix them up you might notice a nice oil leak ;)
  4. linky

    linky LawnSite Member
    Messages: 151

    Prior to landscaping i was an auto tech. for eleven years.It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. What was the original problem? Why replace the carb. and not have it rebuilt? TEST-if you start from a stop full throttle through the gears does it die down and pick back up after several seconds?[in doing this you are trying to use up the fuel-if you the fuel is not being replenished fast enough the engine will start to die down and pick back up when the fuel bowl refills]if this is the case i would suspect the [floats are out of adjustment] restricted fuel filter or low fuel psi.Personaly i think the float level is set too low.I think your fuel psi should be between 6-9 psi.You can check fuel psi by buying a cheap gage and a piece of rubber hose.connect the gage to the fuel supply line and crank engine for several seconds.Watch the gage it should read 6-9 psi while cranking if not replace fuel pump.Or you can connect a hose to the fuel line and hold it into a clear container have someone crank the engine it should shoot a stream as big as the hose and pump 6 oz. of gas in about 5-7 seconds [about] a coke bottle works well for this.I would call the shop that performed the work and tell them the problem.The fuel filter SHUOLD have been replaced with the carb.I hope that i was of help to you.It's difficult to diagnose a problem over the pc. If you have any more questions or the fix email me.
  5. Power mad

    Power mad LawnSite Member
    Messages: 72

    I've had that same problem on a few different rigs. One was a fuel problem, the other times it was electrical. And it turned out to be the coil(hei) would be going down the road and it would start to cut out, let off the throttle and it would smooth out eventualy It got so bad that I had to tow it home. went through the fuel system and it all checked out, pulled the cover off of the coil and it was oviusly shorted out. Melted right through the cap and into the rotor. Put in an Accel super coil, cap, rotor and it drove fine for a few days. Then the same thing again, only this time it was the copper button under the coil to the rotor that fried, did it twice more. still waiting for a third time. got extra button in glove box now. Just haven't figured out why it keeps doing this. Had the module checked and it was OK, have good power source, good ground. Was told that the super coil was too hot, but I have had many of these and have had no problems. And it seems to me that this problem started before the addition of the coil. Sorry I'm bringing up my bugs on your post, but what the hey
  6. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,555

    If it was a fuel problem,usually it is worse under a load,when using a lot of gas.How is it wide open?Its no worse,stop looking there.I think you have an ignition coil going out or a bad module.Do you have a tachometer?If so,does it die and bounce around when the engine cuts out?You can replace the fuel filter cheap,so see what it looks like.
  7. Spence

    Spence LawnSite Member
    Messages: 62

    I just had a new carb. installed, so it has a new fuel filter. The reason the carb. was replaced is that the choke was shot, the whole carb. was worn out. It has done been rebuilt a couple of times. It does seem to be worse under a load, or when you hit the accelerator a little harder. I did a tune-up today; new plugs, wires, dist. cap, and rotor. Didn't fix it, still does the same thing. I was told that a way to check for a vacuum leak around the intake was to spray starting fluid around the intake. If there was a leak, the engine would rev up. I did that today too. I sprayed around the intake, fittings on the intake, and the carb. The engine never reved up. I sprayed eveywhere the best I could, although I may have missed a couple of spots. Now I'm back where I started, maybe it is the fuel pump. Don't know, need some help.
  8. mike reeh

    mike reeh LawnSite Member
    Messages: 229

    Its the fuel pump..

    Even if its not, its still good measure to change it because when they go out, they tend to just go out without warning, at the worst possible time, in the worst possible place.

    I insist on Delco brand, most cheap parts stores carry them for 15-25 dollars.. its not hard to change, make sure you have a flare nut wrench, so you dont round off the flare tubing fittings.. that is the WORST. good luck

    mike reeh
  9. Power mad

    Power mad LawnSite Member
    Messages: 72

    I don't want to start a dispute, but throwing parts at a problem to see if it fixes the bug is not only costly, but can be a frustrating waste of time. I also was an auto tech for a while, and that was how the owner of one shop I worked at fixed things. Very unprofessional, I watched other mechs throw parts at a bug and after hundreds of dollars in unnessesary parts they eventualy fixed the problem, to me that is embarrassing and unethical. I had no diagnostic equipment to work with other than Fluke V/O meter. I had a diagnostic manual and could find the values for different sensors and would spend hours finding the problem. But I never replaced anything unless I knew for a fact that it was faulty. And as I was working flat rate it hurt me , But my reputation as good mechanic was worth it. I finaly quit in disgust over the whole thing, I am a deisel mech after all and was only doing this to get by until I was back in my normal feild. But it was a learning experience that I am gratefull to have had, I am always eager to learn new things . You never know when they will come in handy.
    All done with the sermon
  10. Larrytow

    Larrytow LawnSite Member
    Messages: 44

    I would say to check out the two wires that go to the ign module from the pick up coil. More than likely they are cracked and ready to break off right where they go into the pick up.If one or both break off the motor will stop running. This is a very common prob on this motor due to the advance mechinism pulling on the wires when the timing advance kicks in.

    Regards, Larry

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