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Engine Swap issues

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by pyromedic, Jul 15, 2007.

  1. pyromedic

    pyromedic LawnSite Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 54

    Evening All,
    I have just made a engine swap on my Snapper Z1802 K, I am trying to make use of a spare engine that had about 100hrs on it before moth balling. I am trying to save money until I can get a new ZTR in Sept.Exmark Lazer HP I hope. I took the original Kohler 18hp magnum off after I heard a loud mechanical pop and then loss of power and then unable to start. This unit was using a lot of oil and smoking from the time I bought it used 4 yrs back. I placed the 16hp Briggs I/C on the chassis and got everything bolted back down, changed oil, , air filter and plugs. I sprayed some starting fluid in turned the key, coughed and sputtered but finally stayed running. I let it run for a while and took it for a test ride. It was running pretty slow but was running , Great, I am thinking all is well. Well I kill the engine and try to start it, it will not key start, I jump across the solenoid and it tries to start but then does nothing, besides getting very hot across the solenoid. I have the battery on charge to see if it is the problem, but I think I may have other issues. Long story but my concerns are the following:

    What wires from the original wiring harness do I need to connect to the new engine. I am trying to get the battery to charge, the key to operate properly.
    White red green in the plug that went to the Kohler.

    IS there something that I did in the swap that would have hosed the key switch and the solenoid both?

    IS it possible that the starter is the issue due to the engine not having run in over 4 yrs, it fired up real good for the first few minutes but now will not turn the cylinders.

    The deflector for the muffler is sitting on the base and pointing to the frame, should I redirect it toward the back or is there another muffler that would be better ?

    I am trying to cheap it out for the next few months in an effort to keep a few senior citizens out of the weeds, I do not make much doing this and may lose money since I am getting paid the same I was 15 yrs ago...Any help or direction would be appreciated.

    Be safe and have a great day.

    Capt. Nelson
  2. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 963

    "White red green in the plug that went to the Kohler."
    OK, what colors CAME from the Kohler.

    Also, what version was it? 18HP Magnums came in twins and singles.
    What's the numbers on the Briggs?

    What colors come FROM the Briggs?
    Briggs has several different variations on their charging systems with 1-3 wires and 5 different colors.

    The RED FROM the Kohler would typically be your 12V from the alternator, via the regulator.
    White FROM the Kohler would likely be the engine kill wire.
  3. pyromedic

    pyromedic LawnSite Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 54

    Thanks , I have not been able to get any of the numbers from the Briggs, not in the usual spots that I have found, I/C twin about 7 yrs old, There was a green wire out of the harness going to a terminal on the left side of block and a red wire going into the short terminal on the regulator. That was when it was on an old Dixon hyrdo drive 502.
    I have the Kohler service manual but not anything on the Briggs.
    Busy day at the station yesterday, I will get the other questions answered and back to you this evening. The magnum was a 18hp twin MV18s type 58513. I appreicate the assistance. Be safe.

  4. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 963

    IF both engines had regulators, the RED wire coming from it should be the same on both. 12V to charge the battery etc.

    IS the engine well grounded to the frame? Bad connections on the ground "leg" will prevent cranking just as much as on the + side. Maybe the mounting bolts loosened slightly when you were running it?
    Did the Briggs have a separate ground wire to the frame in it's original application?

    When you initially started the engine, did you use the switch, or jump start it to the solenoid?

    I would get the battery tested or substitute a known good battery.

    Do you have a Voltmeter?
  5. pyromedic

    pyromedic LawnSite Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 54

    I will match up the red, the both had regulators.

    Engine is well grounded and there was a separate ground, I have the ground for the battery going to the engine mount bolt. I will ground the engine with a heavy gauge wire from one of the other engine bolts.

    I did put a full charge on the battery and it turns a lot faster and starts with no problem. The first time I started was from the key switch with a boost from cable off the truck..

    I do have a volt meter, and I am trying to get a service manual if I can ever figure out the exact model and type numbers.

    I appreciate the suggestions and comments.


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