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Ep coventry step

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by jbailey52, Feb 28, 2007.

  1. jbailey52

    jbailey52 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,094

    Hey guys.... I have a question for ya....

    Well maybe just tips...

    I am building a coventry II walkway and step tommorow...

    The step is only one riser and basically is all a step (is there a technical name for this?) I hope you understand what I am saying... I was wondering if anyone had a picture they could share....

    the dimension is 5' on 3 sides... and I am going to use coventry pavers as the tread.. Also want to possibly use bullnose.... Going to be 3 courses one burried, and two showing.. can I mix in 3" coventry or just stick with 6"

    Thanks guys!
  2. jervin38

    jervin38 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 29

    Here is a pic of a step we did last year and I also don't see why you can't mix in 3" cov with the 6" cov just for one step, but I would make the buried coarse (the one nobody is going to see) with the 6" cov and then mix in the 3" and make sure every thing gets glued down good.

    ERVIN PAVER JOB 115.jpg
  3. McKeeLand

    McKeeLand LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 681

    here is a smaller version of what you are talking about.

  4. jbailey52

    jbailey52 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,094

    Thanks guys, I was planning on using the 16" x3" stretcher for the burried course, then built 4 3" courses on top of that... Also going to use a cap i think.. the customer likes bullnose.. but Im not a big fan... thanks for the replys!
  5. ChampionLS

    ChampionLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,066

    Why bother using Coventry block for the risers on one step? all you can see is 3-5/8" to 5-3/8" of the riser's face. I would use Terrace Wall, or Mesa Wall depending on your actual height of the step. (6 or 8" block height + paver thickness of 2-3/8") Your final step should be between 6 and 8 inches. There is really no difference in the rock facing on Coventry vs. any other block with only one riser showing. Coventry blocks are narrow, so there is a chance on them rocking.
  6. McKeeLand

    McKeeLand LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 681

    i use coventry because it has a larger surface area for the adhesive to adhere to the bull nose and it is usually what we are building the walls out of anyway. but you could use the terrace wall as well for a single step like that.
  7. ChampionLS

    ChampionLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,066

    Heres a set of Terrace Wall steps with bullnose treads, and Evening Star accent lights in Firefly. I filled the block with mortar and let it dry before gluing the bullnose down (more surface area to glue to) Every single bullnose paver was cut on both sides using a plywood jig to keep the angle consistent. Adhesive was placed on the sides of the bullnose for the step's corners and aloud to dry overnight before gluing the whole thing down. The wrought iron work was removed before the project began. IT WAS HEAVY!! needed the loader/pallet forks to move it. I bet they weighed 600lbs each side.



  8. cgland

    cgland LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,929

    In those cases, I would probably use Versa-Loc as my riser for a couple of reasons. A) The color blends of VL match super close to EPH's blends. B) I like using a solid block for steps as McKee said. C) With Coventry block you must buy a layer and sometimes you just don't need that much. As far as a block "rocking", I think that is highly unlikely. we build all of our steps as pedestals, so I wouldn't have that problem.

  9. Hokie84

    Hokie84 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    Could you describe the plywood jig for cutting?
  10. ChampionLS

    ChampionLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,066

    I don't have a picture I can show you at the moment... but I have a small piece of plywood that I cut as a jig. It's maybe 9 inches long x 4 at one end, and perhaps 3.5 on the other. (sides are tapered). I put this up against my stop on the table saw, then place my bullnose against that. (the table saw does not come with a stop that offers anything other than a 90 degree cut). When I do a gradual radius, I saw off just a little of each side. There may be some bullnose that aren't cut in the center, but you have to keep watch that your lines are perpendicular to the risers. Once the lines start to taper more than 90, you need to use straight ones again. The result makes for a very pleasing set of steps.

    Now when I do the soldier course, I use a different jig for 6x9's. I have it figured out where 12 6x9's will make a 3' radius curve. The two end 6x9's have only one side cut, and all the ones in between are cut on both sides. I NEVER EVER butt cut pavers up against each other, without a 1/8" sand filled joint. Otherwise they WILL CHIP when you goto compact it.

    When I do landings now, I try to stay away from complicated patterns. Easy is better. The other picture with the lights was taken with an older first generation digital camera, but you can still see the clean cuts and geometrically correct angles.



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