Exmark Spreader/Sprayer Setup

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Coachbob, Jan 11, 2020.

  1. Coachbob

    Coachbob LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    I am planning to calibrate the new rig today and had a few questions about it. I know Gary and some others use this machine, so hoping i can get some basics here, and some tips from experience for my first runs.

    1. What can i expect from stock nozzles, and what color nozzle would give me 4K per gallon, and which for 2k per gallon?
    2. My two most used dry materials are ammonium sulfate at 150 SGN and Lesco 44-0-0 at 240 SGN. Any idea how i might convert Lesco Spreader settings to the Exmark?
    3. Best online place for Subaru spare parts?
    4. Say I’m spraying a warning track of about 8-10 feet width, what’s the best way to attack that without drift onto the turf? I assume the deflector would be useful in this case?

    thanks for the help.
    hort101 likes this.
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 16,321

    Warning track? Do you mean with Roundup or a soil sterilant? Near the grass outfield?
    Difficult situation.
    Edge-guard is for fertilizer--not designed to reduce spray drift.
    Most nozzles are designed to taper to a diffuse edge. Not suited to a sharp-defined edge.
    You would probably have to use a flat band type nozzle with no tapered edge. Needs sharp cut-off.

    Probably you need to treat the edge first with right side nozzles turned off. Then change-out the band nozzle and do the rest of the area. Practice with water.

    Maybe you can use the hand spray wand.

    For a really sharp edge--don't know--possibly you can cover the edge with cardboard--like a 4 foot pallet card. Have your assistant run alongside the sprayer; slide the card along the grass border as you go.
    Or have your assistant drive the sprayer.
    Get photos and be prepared to reseed any mistakes.
    grass4gas and Coachbob like this.
  3. That Guy Gary

    That Guy Gary LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,304

    Every machine does vary a bit and the pressure you're running will have an influence. At 30psi I got 3k per with the stock white tips and 4k per when I used grey ones. I never went below 3k but the nozzles are Teejet Turbojets. You can calculate what should get there with the charts in Teejet's catalog/webpage and the formulas in the manual. Subtract 10% from the flow rates of the nozzles if you plan to spray at 40 psi, it won't maintain that for too long. At 30 psi you can just increase pressure a little to compensate, in really I sprayed at 30-35 psi as needed to hit my target rate.

    Verify your ground speed for accurate calculations with the formula in the book. My machine is actually a bit pokey, it runs at an even 5 mph.

    New nozzles will have their flow rate deteriorate with use so do a flow test regularly when you're using it often. I did it weekly but about every 25-50 machine hours is probably good.

    For narrow areas I will go down the middle with whichever nozzles are safe without overspray and then trim the edges with the wand.

    Headed out the door but I'll come back and post more later.
    hort101 and Coachbob like this.
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 16,321

    Find out how many seconds it takes to cover 1000 sqft. Use measuring wheel or long tape measure. (Use your normal swath-pass width.)
    Then collect the spray output in ounces for that number of seconds, (about 15 or 20 seconds.) This is the ounces per 1000 sqft.

    Adjust and repeat using 5000 sqft. This larger area is more accurate. Use a calculator. Repeat until consistent.
    Coachbob likes this.
  5. CorgiTurf

    CorgiTurf LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 589

    I always did skinned areas and warning track edges with a backpack, 2 passes. Then I would used a wider spray rig.
    Or get someone to walk with ply wood on the edge as you spray with the ride on.
    hort101 and Coachbob like this.
  6. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 16,321

    Plywood--stronger--better. Could be heavy.
    Someone needs to invent a wheelbarrow device to create a straight edge with Roundup at the edge of the outfield--with the plywood bolted to the side--just in case your assistant gets tired.
    In fact, a power driven plywood shield would be better yet. Bolt it to your lawnmower.
    For a perfect straight edge, is their any way to bolt a plywood shield to your sprayer? Plastic? Convert a plastic snow shovel to the purpose?
    It would probably catch on any hills lumps or bumps. Hmmm...
  7. grass4gas

    grass4gas LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 864

    The deflector is for granular products, not liquid so I am not sure what you mean.

    I am using the stock white tips at 40PSI and running at a slower speed and get 2K/gal. If I can remember, it takes me about 28-30 seconds to push out approximately 62-64oz of liquid. This is for 1000sq.ft.

    I haven’t used any other tip so I can’t comment on them. One thing I can say is you can try going slower...IDK. The beauty of this machine is the spray pattern will be constant regardless of your speed
  8. OP

    Coachbob LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    Right not the deflector, my bad. i was thinking there was a way to shut down one side and get a clean line but too risky anyway i suppose.
  9. OP

    Coachbob LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    i had to spread some triple 15 on an acre so i decided to give it a go right off the truck. Set spreader at 4 and went at it. Very intuitive, easy to use and adjust on the fly. Was able to tweak the impeller speed and work the deflector at full speed no problem. Messed with the balance control and width too. The settings i used gave me about 2 Lbs. of material per k at SGN 250. Next time i use that size i will try 4.5 or 5.
    hort101 likes this.
  10. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 16,321

    I suggest to calibrate the granular product. Guess at a good setting.
    Then...put a weighed 20 pounds in the hopper and run until empty. Measure the area covered and calculate your pounds applied per thousand sqft.
    If you have a good scale--use 10 pounds.
    Adjust and repeat until concistent. consistent.
    Since the hopper never fully empties--you may wish to call the end-point as the point where the shiny agitation shaft first becomes visible.
    We were typing at the same time, Coach, LOL!
    Use a full bag of 50 pounds if you have plenty of room, of course.

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