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exmark ultra vac bearings

shaskel

LawnSite Member
I was wondering if anyone has any advice as to how to remove the two main bearings on a ultra vac? I was able to get the top bearing out but i cant figure out how to remove the lower bearing past the key on the shaft for the pulley that ties it all into each other. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Steve
 
In order to remove the bottom bearing out of the blower assembly, the impeller needs to be removed from the blower housing. To remove the impeller, the upper housing needs to be removed on the top; at the bottom, the nut, pulley (sheave), spacer and key needs to come out then you pull the impeller from the top. Once the impeller it's out you’ll be able to get to the flange housing that are bolted to the blower mount and holds the bearing. Please reference to the Ultra Vac parts manual for parts viewing.
Hope this help you out.

Service Team
Exmark Manufacturing
 
OP
S

shaskel

LawnSite Member
I've got the impeller out and top bearing completely off I just don't understand how to get the lower bearing past the key slot for the pulley. Am I going about this all wrong? It's me first one we usually have everything fixed by a dealer.
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mac43rn

LawnSite Member
Location
evansville, IN
In order to remove the bottom bearing out of the blower assembly, the impeller needs to be removed from the blower housing. To remove the impeller, the upper housing needs to be removed on the top; at the bottom, the nut, pulley (sheave), spacer and key needs to come out then you pull the impeller from the top. Once the impeller it's out you’ll be able to get to the flange housing that are bolted to the blower mount and holds the bearing. Please reference to the Ultra Vac parts manual for parts viewing.
Hope this help you out.

Service Team
Exmark Manufacturing
I’m in the same boat. How do you remove the key and spacer??
 

Mattsmowing99

LawnSite Member
Location
NEO
The key that is in the shaft is a half moon that can be removed with a screw driver and hammer. This will allow the spacer to drop out. When I was in business full time I rebuilt the vacs on my units about every 3 months. Had it down to a science. Literally a pain in the butt that you have to take the unit 100% apart. I actually just help a buddy rebuild his unit yesterday. I can get pictures if you need them.
 

mac43rn

LawnSite Member
Location
evansville, IN
Matt, Thank your for the response. I finally figured it out later that night. I had never worked with a woodruff key in my life. The bearings and new woodruff key are arriving this afternoon.
 

Mark Oomkes

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
The key that is in the shaft is a half moon that can be removed with a screw driver and hammer. This will allow the spacer to drop out. When I was in business full time I rebuilt the vacs on my units about every 3 months. Had it down to a science. Literally a pain in the butt that you have to take the unit 100% apart. I actually just help a buddy rebuild his unit yesterday. I can get pictures if you need them.
Between these bearings and the spindle bearings, they about drove me nuts having to rebuild and replace so frequently.
 

tonylawn

LawnSite Member
Location
St. Paul, MN
Old post I'm replying to but if anyone is still listening...

I just had to replace the impeller after 2 fall seasons and 1 spring. I originally thought it was the bearing because that has failed quite often and like the above post I can tear it apart and back together in a few hours.

So a few things. I have been using a aftermarket bearing because the Exmark (I actually have a Toro E-Z Vac on my Toro Z master, but is identical) is way overpriced. I can get a aftermarket bearing for $9 and they have lasted 2-3 years of spring and fall cleanups in the past. This time the impeller had one of the fins actually bent and was rubbing on the inside of the metal housing causing a terrible noise. So I had to buy my 3rd impeller ($250), the first one had a bearing seize on it and junked it. Granted the system is going on at least 9 years old, I just keep swapping it to my newer Z. This latest swap was fun getting the double pully on top of the deck pully. The nut holding the pully on was impossible to get off. Had to use a torch and impact gun. This was on a new mower not a rusted nut.

When I replace the bearings only, I try to clean up the flange housings so the entire bearing can move freely to allow proper alignment of the impeller. I also like to use antiseize on the threads of the impeller, makes it easy to dis assemble. Follow the exploded views of the ultra vac or EZ vac powerhead and you will be fine.

If the bearing isn't going out, the metal housing is getting ripped open like a tin can (welding can repair this) or the thin molded plastic housing is wearing thru, JB Plastic Weld will last a season. All planned obsolescence to keep the Toro company in business I guess!

I think the engineers design these things to make our lives miserable.
 
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