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Exmark Viking hydro pump replacement

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Roger, Jun 2, 2008.

  1. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,937

    After thousands of service hours (>6,000) and eleven years of service, one of my hydro pumps started leaking. The machine is used every day in the business, and is vital to the operation. I do not have a backup machine.

    I made the replacement Saturday evening, and have a question for those who are mechanics and do these kinds of tasks every day. The replacement task went pretty well (for somebody who has never done one before), with one exception. I had great difficulty getting off one of the 3/8" tubes from a nipple. I've attached some pics of the nipple, about 1" (or a bit longer), with a bulb at the end. The tubing was slipped over the nipple, and held in place with a spring clamp.

    I took off all other attachments to the pump, and the spring clip. But, the tubing would not slip off the nipple, without great force. With the pump free of other connections, and free from the mounting bolts, I was able to rotate it. My hope was the rotation would free it enough to pull off the tubing. In the end, I pushed off the tubing with a screwdriver, but did some damage to the end of the tubing. The damage was minor.

    After getting the old pump out, and switching the fittings from the old pump to the new one, I was now confronted with the reverse action -- getting the tubing back onto the nipple. Again, this proved to be very difficult. The tubing is very thick walled, hence very stiff.

    My question is pretty simple: What is the best way to get these tubes off the long, bulbous nipples? And, of course, the reverse action, how to get them back on? Remember, the envelope of space is rather limited, and hand access is not the greatest. So leverage is not very good.

    The pics below show some of the procedure. The first one is with the tubing still attached to the nipple. The second one shows the old pump out, being held in vice, for removal of the fitting with the nipple.

    The entire process took about three hours. But, the most time was spent with the nipple/tube problem -- more than one hour combined for the removal and reinstall. The rest of the procedure was very straight forward, requiring only simple hand tools I had in my toolbox.

    As a side note, I learned something about these pumps that may be useful for others who have not had the replacement experience. The pump in my machine is a BDP-10L-117, made by Hydro Gear. This pump is used (perhaps in older w/b mowers) for a variety of brands. The Exmark dealers did not have a pump in stock, but a Scag dealer had four of them. I learned the same pump is used in Bunton, Exmark, Scag, and some others.

    Also, I found online a chart with information about the pump. The BDP-10L is a model, with a family of choices. The 117 suffix denotes particular options on that pump. The options include features such as check valve size, orifice sizes, CW or CCW rotation, shaft configuration (e.g. keyed, tapered keyed, splined), etc. The point is the 117 suffix is important in getting a replacement. Having a BDP-10L series pump is not sufficient for having the right replacement pump for the mower.




  2. Itsgottobegreen

    Itsgottobegreen LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,177

    90% of your problem is that hydro line is 11 years old and slighty dry rotted. I would just take it with ya and go to the nearest hydraulic shop and get a new piece. Should be less than $10 for the length you need.
  3. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,937

    Itsgottobegreen, ... you are probably right about the dry rot. The tubing is not very flexible, but it is also has a very thick wall.

    A replacement is out of the question. As stated in the initial post, the pump is installed, connections made, refilled with fluid, machine running, and was in service most of the day today. It works fine, except I need to refine the neutral point in the linkage a bit better. Reverse is just a little slow compared to the other side.

    The good news is that there are no leaks in any of the connections!
  4. Breezmeister

    Breezmeister LawnSite Bronze Member
    Male, from South Jersey
    Messages: 1,739

    Roger, if I understand you correctly, the tube/hose is a return line back to the reservoir. When I don't cut them off, I have a long needle nose plies that I use to wedge in behind the tube, then work it out while I'm puling. When I go to put a used or a new tube/hose on, I let the end soak in HOT water so that it is pliable, and use soapy water that I have for finding leaks in tires to lube the nipple.
    ericg likes this.
  5. kayeproperties

    kayeproperties LawnSite Member
    Messages: 141

    Did a pump my self on an older x-mark and learned the same stuff about pumps but I would recommend you get the lines for your pumps as when they are old they can go anytime and you will be out of luck and stuck. Order them from j-thomas and have them ready or for when you have the time or it will get you at the wrong time.

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