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Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by mowerbrad, Jan 5, 2014.
wheel base too short, just like the 72" green deck not fitting the 4010 or 4100.
i have a 3320 and it has yet to let me down. I install and move about 1000 yards of material each spring, load salt in the winter into vbox salters, plow snow with a front 3 pt hitch plow. Tiller, box blade, post hole digger, harley rake, carry all with a snow blower rack on it for winter months, ballast box, strobe lights all over it, LED work lights all around it, and pallet forks.
If you want a solid tractor get a 3320 or 3520 for added turbo hp. Same engine just turbo'd. I personally wouldn't get a cab, you would only use it for snow blowing. When in michigan does it get "too hot" outside to work. Maybe 10 days out of the year, if that….. The cab adds about 9k to the total price when i priced mine out. You can get a removable curtis cab for 3k if you really want a cab in the winter. The cab adds bulkiness and doesn't fit in a regular sized garage (which is why i didnt get one in the first place) Low tree limbs in the forest will bust a window open.
Cabs are nice but not needed.
My favorite attachment i have is the john deere 48 backhoe. Little too big for my tractor but works great. I bought it from a bankrupt business for 1500 bucks, they are 7k brand new!!!!
You won't go wrong with the 3320, but i wouldn't get the frontier attachments and i wouldn't get a cab. Go get attachments from other dealers or online for 1/2 the price brand new.
Can you pick up pallets?
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I can't get a Curtis cab for my tractor anymore, and I have an aquaintance that searched the entire country through various networks to find one for his 4100 which takes the same cab as mine. He found exactly one available, and had it shipped from out east somewhere.
I don't want a cab for the air in the summer, but I do like keeping the dust off me and being able to breath easier when working in dusty conditions, which I do often enough. For a lot of the work I use mine for though, I am fine with an open station.
I don't drive my tractor anywhere in the woods that I would/could break a window. If a person is too lazy to clear their pathway and protect their expensive investment, they get what they deserve as far as the window issue goes, but yes, carelessness in the woods can lead to a broken window.
I built my shop with a door specifically sized for a cab or canopy, so no worries there either.
On the attachments, I agree with you there for the most part. The Frontier attachments are great, and name brand stuff for the most part (though some are now King Kutter brand painted green), but Deere likes to almost double the price of them vs buying at a dealer that sells Woods, Land Pride etc, the manu's that make the bulk of Frontier equipment sold at Deere dealerships.
I was actually thinking of you when I started looking at tractors and did a little research on here and saw back when you were looking at purchasing. And you brought up a few good points here about the cab and what not...most if them I have thought of myself too.
As far as the cab goes, I initially didn't want to go with the cab, I was fine with an open station tractor. But when I was at my dealer a month or so ago, I was playing around with a couple tractors in their lot, one a 3720 with cab and another being a 2000 series open station. With it being in the upper 20's for temperatures that day, I was pretty much sold on a cab. I'm not so concerned about the summer months but from November through March, the temps are pretty chilly so doing any work, like snowblowing or work on my own property once I get it, will not be much fun. The point of the cab for me is to make this tractor a year round machine. While the cab isn't needed in the summer, it would just make my working conditions 10x more comfortable. My dealers pricing puts the cab as a $6.5k option. My biggest concern though is not being able to fit into a standard size garage door, so if it is at my house now, it won't be able to be brought into the garage, however I haven't built a shop yet so when that is actually built it will have a door big enough for it obviously.
As far as implements go, I will probably only buy two from the dealer at the start just so I can take advantage of the $500 implement bonus from deere and since I'd be getting a loader with it, I might as well get something else and save a bit of money with it. After the initial purchase I will probably try to find some used attachments that are in decent shape to help save a bit of money.
Tho I am wondering how you like the power of the 3320? Do you ever wish you stepped up to the 3520? I'd rather not step up to a turbo charged engine if I don't have to because I feel like that is just one more thing to break and I've heard the turbo engines drink quite a bit more fuel.
When you go to a dealer and sit in the cab, the cabs are sooo nice. So much nicer than an open station. I see your point and if you can swing it, get the cab. You won't be able to use a backhoe tho.
To me the 3320 loader itself is underpowered, and a weak design IMO. ,my loader arms need constant adjustment. I honestly wish it was a bolt on design rather than a quick attach. It's so easy to take off, ,why I am complaining , idk, but if you expect to lift more than 1200 lbs with ballast, get a skid. The loader arms are "ok" for digging(with a toothed bucket) great for moving soil,mulch.snow, brush, and salt, but suck at lifting pallets. When moving pallets of full brick, I lift the pallet as high as it can go(1/2") and then I push or pull the pallet where I want to put it. So it's still on the ground pretty much but the john deere has about half the weight so it can leverage the weight around.
Other than the loader, I have never needed or wanted a heavier more hp machine. I have ran a 7 foot rear mower and a lot of big attachments and I have a rear 3pt pallet fork so I can lift full pallets with that.
It's only problem is the loader.
Dlong you have PM
I'm not too concerned with the loader lifting full pallets of bricks as I am not planning on doing any heavy lifting in the foreseeable future. It will mainly be used to help clear brush and move bark/mulch/snow/dirt. I know this won't be as powerful as a skid steer but it will work quite well for me and what I plan on using it for, I think.
It's tough for me to spend nearly $40k on a new tractor but the 0% for 48 months does ease the pain a bit by spreading the cost over a bit of time. I only know it will be tough because I know I'll be using the tractor personally quite a bit but I haven't really done any tractor type work before so I'm not sure how much business I will be getting right away for the tractor.
Also, do you find your tractor to be light enough to take on lawns if needed with minimal damage? I don't really wanna damage people's lawns too much if I have to take the tractor across the lawn.
As long as you Dont turn sharp you're fine
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If you build your storage facility big enough to hold my truck and trailer, I would pay you a monthly rent fee to do so since I'm close by. Been keeping my trailer in a lock up for several years, but would really like to store them together since we live in a condo area. PM me if you want to talk about it. Best of luck in your new venture!