The Ohio State University guys say you only need one balanced fert. per season. They recommended soil testing to be sure that P & K and pH were within an acceptable range. They said a high nitrogen fert like 46-0-0 should be used for a final fall app. They said the high nitrogen will help the turf store more carbohydrates and give you an early green-up in the spring. I have done this technique with some good results. I also have used a high K fert 15-0-30 with good results. I use the 15-0-30 on lawns w/ a history of snow mold. I think the extra K helps harden the plant off and reduces the stresses of disease.
To put down 1 lb. of N per K, the 10-10-10 will cover 5K and the 32-5-7 will cover 16K. Do the math and you'll see that the 32-5-7 is a better buy. Unless a soil test indicates you need to bring up the P or K, I wouldn't use the 10-10-10. Turf needs N especially in the Fall.
In the fall we like to apply 2/3rds of the seasons nitrogen. We custom mix our own formula. I have found here in new jersey that a september application of 1/2 lb of actual nitrogen from soluable urea prills and 1/8th lb of actual potassium from potassium sulfate in a tank mix with broadleaf herbicide works well...quick source of sulphur,potassium and nitrogen. The foliar app is very efficient because you get minamal losses from volatilization and 1/2 lb n from a foliar app is equal to 1 1/2 lbs n from a granular source. (uptake is much more efficient)
We save money on product and the results are Great regardless of soil type.
Our last app is about 4-5 weeks later. Granular 34-3-11 no sulphur coated urea. We want the plant to take up all of the nitrogen quickly...If we used any s.c.u. on the last app it would continue releasing after the plant stopped uptake and that would be a waste and could possably leach into groundwater.
We use a yellow nozzle on a chemlawn gun and we put down 1 1/2 gal of water per 1000 sq. ft. P.S.I. 80- 100 at the pump.