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Fertilizing and Seeding Programs

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by chris brauch, Feb 5, 2013.

  1. chris brauch

    chris brauch LawnSite Member
    Messages: 130

    It's February and i want to let my clients know i am doing much more than just mowing this year. anyone know good guidleines to follow or a print off for fertilizing and seeding this season?
  2. crichardson

    crichardson LawnSite Member
    Messages: 96

    +1 this would be nice
  3. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Fertilizing should be done around the 2nd mowing, but everybody will do it b4 the grass breaks dormancy... overseeding can be done anytime and it will germinate when the weather is correct, but there will be pre-m in the ground b4 that even happens...
    You could set yourself apart by actually filling in the barespots in peoples' lawns, but that would require that you NOT copy the 'big boys' in the industry...
    R U licensed???
  4. chris brauch

    chris brauch LawnSite Member
    Messages: 130

    i'm not licensed yet but getting ready to get that done its like $40 and i have to take two tests then i should be set up
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Good luck...
  6. Rick13

    Rick13 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 408

    If you put down Pre-M (to prevent crabgrass) then you shouldn't reseed until the temperature gets warmer (time would pass for crabgrass to germinate later on in the season)....by breaking up the ground barrier from the Pre-M...you've messed up your protecting barrier....and now crabgrass seed could germinate.

    Unless you put down your Pre-M and then spread organic compost in bare areas. After spreading organic compost you could reseed those sections....then you wouldn't have to worry about breaking your ground barrier of Pre-M. Then you would get the best of both worlds.

    Your yard protected from crabgrass seed germination and new grass seed growing in your bare spots because of new organic compost that doesn't have Pre-M to prevent germination.

    Because Pre-M will prevent any grass seed to germinate.
  7. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    You're in cool-season country... why not grow the grass b4 putting down pre-m in the first place... the additional expense of seeding with compost is entirely unnecessary...
    Why should one wait to overseed "... until the temperature gets warmer..." ??? as you put it...

    Overseeding can be done as soon as you see where the barespots are in the Spring... If you do that,,, AND an average Spring occurs,,, your new seed should survive the Summer heat, if properly managed up to that point...

    There is no reason to wait for the ground to warm up in the Spring b4 you put down seed... all you have done was waste the 'getting ready' time... the seed needs to 'get ready' and once it does it will pop when the conditions are right... and even if it freezes every nite thereafter it will continue to grow in the Spring...
    If you put out the seed AFTER the ground has "warmed up" ,,, then it freezes every nite thereafter it will not germinate ,,, will it??? All of that time is wasted...
  8. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,558

    I seeded some perennial rye last fall on November 17, 2012. After 30 days it was about 1/8 inch tall. The average daily high temp was 40 degrees F. The first few days-just involve the seed absorbing water. Ax is right, I suspect you can start early in spring...just do not expect the rapid germination and growth you would get if the soil temperature was 80 degrees. Growth will be slow on cold days--and fast on warm days, but little by little your new grass will appear and still be sooner than seed planted later when the soil is warm. Use plenty of seed--seed is cheaper than labor when it comes to elaborate raking, topdressing and hours of soil preparation. In theory, you should be able to get the seed up and safely apply crabgrass control in a tiny window between new grass maturation and the germination date for crabgrass in your area. My opinion...new grass must be two inches tall, and crabgrass control must go down before the air temp reaches 80 degrees. I am talking about mainly perennial ryegrass--bluegrass is much slower.
    In St Louis MO, conditions are different--I am assuming you will be using tall fescue. I am not sure how that would work out. Maybe sod is your answer.
  9. Rick13

    Rick13 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 408

    Grass seed won't germinate unless the ground temperature is 50 degrees. Yes, the air temperature will vary, and you want your crabgrass control down when the temps. start reaching 60 degrees for air temps.

    The organic compost to cover the seed, makes a great growing bed...it protects your seed from getting washed away, from hungry birds wanting to eat it, holds moisture for better germination, and works as a starter fertilizer to promote growth new grass growth.

    I think you should be able to spread your Pre-M down, and as long as you break the soil up (or not spread in those areas), then you should be able to plant your new grass seed.
  10. Carl Bert

    Carl Bert LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    What about Tupersan Pre-M? That allows you to seed as you're killing the crabgrass. At least that's what it says.

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