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Filtration?

Discussion in 'Water Features' started by fmjnax, Mar 30, 2008.

  1. fmjnax

    fmjnax LawnSite Member
    Messages: 21

    Well, I just got done reading through about 6 pages of results and gave up after not finding much information to help...

    I'm in the process of digging my pond that is estimated at about 2,500 gallons. I need to seriously rethink my filtration idea (was going with a DIY 3-barrel bio-filter). The pond will be more of a water garden than a fish pond, but we do plan on having some goldfish in it eventually. I don't want a really expensive pump (I have the Pondmaster Mag 3000 in mind). I don't want a filtration option that is going to cost much more than the pump (say, under $200). I will be adding a 10-15' stream and a waterfall in the future, but that will be phase 2 of the pond.

    So, how would you guys meet my needs if I was your customer?
     
  2. Venturewest

    Venturewest LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    I would excavate an up-flow bog filter. Lined with epdm liner, filled with pea gravel or clean crushed gravel. I would focus on the surface area of the filter not on the depth. More plants= more filtration. The bog filter serves as the start of your falls and stream also.
     
  3. fmjnax

    fmjnax LawnSite Member
    Messages: 21

    Excellent! I never even thought of a bog filter! Ultimately kill two birds with one stone. I was planning on having an upper basin/waterfall pond (strictly to hold a constant water flow; not for ornamental reasons). Is that where you are saying to make it a bog filter instead of "just another pond", or would the bog filter be it's own thing? Also, would I run the gravel up to within a few inches of the top, of should I also use a layer of soil? If I should use soil, what kind is best to use?

    I was planning on the upper basin being about 4x5 and a couple feet deep. I am using clay (we have thick, black clay here) from the excavation of the pond to build up the land for the waterfall, so dimensions can easily be worked around. I also suppose this means the waterfall and stream will all be phase 1, which is ultimately no big deal. Just extends my "fill-up" date a little while longer.

    Now for a slightly off-topic question: The pump I have been looking at is a submersible pump (try to save a bit of money over a direct-drive/external). Would I still be able to use a bottom drain? If so, how would I configure it (still researching bottom drains, so please bear with me)? In my previous 3 ponds I have done (all very small, under 250 gallons), I use a submersible pump and just "tube" it to where it needs to go, hiding the tubes the best I can. Now that I'm on a much larger scale, I don't want to have to try and hide 3" or 4" pipes if at all possible.

    Thanks!
     
  4. Fishwhiz

    Fishwhiz LawnSite Member
    from Oregon
    Messages: 112

    This reminds me when you underbudget your design, you will surely end up over budget on construction and maintenance. I think that's true in all industries.
     
  5. n2h20

    n2h20 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 503

    spend the money on a pump and filter.. it will be worth it in the long run.. 2500 gallons is a lot of water to be pushing with a pondmaster.. not that pondmasters are a bad pump but not the best for that size pond.
    how many amps does a pondmaster 3000 pull any way? 2 amps? you can get an external pump that will handle more flow for lest than 2 amps. less amps means less electrical consumption and less per month to operate.
    plus with a submersible pump you have to worry about clogging. and its a pain to fish that thing out of the water and clean it.
    If you really want a submersible i would look into the "solid" handling pumps. these can usually handle leaves and such up to 1/4" or more,, so there is less clogging.

    If it we me building this pond i would install a bottom drain/skimmer external pump and an external bead filter.. the bog would be a plus.

    also install a backwash/drain on your bog... makes life easier,
     

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