[kmegan]

I've recently converted a large hillside in my backyard to a 100% fine fescue blend (Wildflower Farm's Eco-Lawn). After battling quackgrass for the better part of the year, the fine fescue has come in very nicely. No more mowing and hardly any weeds.

I was considering converting most of my yard (low traffic areas) to fine fescue, but I'd really appreciate feedback before going through the effort and expense. Info online for fine fescue lawns is sparse and conflicting.

Will a blend like Eco-Lawn do okay in full sun (SE Minnesota)? I'm considering mowing it rarely or just once before winter to "put it to bed". Would that help it stay greener in full sun? Will keeping it full height reduce thatch problems or make thatch worse? There will be more dead leaves, but I was thinking roots and other thatch material may not build up as quickly if the roots are growing deeper.

Also, will it be important to dethatch a fine fescue lawn on a yearly basis? I've heard mechanical dethatching can tear up fine fescue lawns. It will also be quite a chore on the hillside.

I've looked into supplementing earthworms to help with potential thatch issues, but I don't know if they would make a dent. Earthworms are considered invasive up north, so probably not the brightest idea anyway.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Kiwiman]

I've recently converted a large hillside in my backyard to a 100% fine fescue blend (Wildflower Farm's Eco-Lawn). After battling quackgrass for the better part of the year, the fine fescue has come in very nicely. No more mowing and hardly any weeds.

I was considering converting most of my yard (low traffic areas) to fine fescue, but I'd really appreciate feedback before going through the effort and expense. Info online for fine fescue lawns is sparse and conflicting.

Will a blend like Eco-Lawn do okay in full sun (SE Minnesota)? I'm considering mowing it rarely or just once before winter to "put it to bed". Would that help it stay greener in full sun? Will keeping it full height reduce thatch problems or make thatch worse? There will be more dead leaves, but I was thinking roots and other thatch material may not build up as quickly if the roots are growing deeper.

Also, will it be important to dethatch a fine fescue lawn on a yearly basis? I've heard mechanical dethatching can tear up fine fescue lawns. It will also be quite a chore on the hillside.

I've looked into supplementing earthworms to help with potential thatch issues, but I don't know if they would make a dent. Earthworms are considered invasive up north, so probably not the brightest idea anyway.

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 366201

 

[Kiwiman]

Quite a common lawn in New Zealand.
Mow low(25-30mm), minimise fertiliser inputs are the key to minimising thatch build up. They key to Dethatching is to not let a thick Mat build up, this is when damage will happen.
Goes dormant fairly easily in the heat but comes back a lot better than most when the rain returns.

Very popular fairway grass because of its low inputs. My last course had zero fert or irrigation but had full cover all year.

 

[RigglePLC]

Do you mean this one?
http://www.wildflowerfarm.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51&search=Eco-lawn

This seed should work out fine. No need to dethatch. Under good conditions with fertilizer a few times per year, creeping red fescue will accumulate thatch eventually. Fine fescue will brown out during hot spells, but recover when rains happen. Thatch is not really harmful in this situation. No need to dethatch. Reduce fertilizer if you want to reduce thatch.
Sometimes wildflower meadows are burned in spring--but that can be dangerous. You many be able to find a time in spring, just before greenup when mowing is helpful and possible. Try about 3 weeks before the last frost of spring.

Not to be negative, but be sure any mixture does not contain a lot of "Boreal" fine fescue. This fescue is the oldest, cheapest and most disease-prone. At least for the yard around the house--get new improved types. Dark green and disease resistant. The only one I can remember is Longfellow II.
https://hancockseed.com/chewings-fescue-grass-seed-50-lb-bag-424.html

Consider this sheeps fescue for instance. Wildflower compatible.

https://www.outsidepride.com/seed/grass-seed/fescue-grass-seed/sheeps-fescue-grass-seed.html

 

[kmegan]

Thanks for the reassurances.

The fine fescue blend does contain a couple creeping red fescues, so thatch may become a problem over time. I don't think I will fertilize the lawn.

There is a sunnnier patch on the hill that is finally starting to turn brown. Not the worst thing in the world. The summers in SE Minnesota do get warmer than New Zealand (approx 6 degrees C higher), but we also get approx twice the rain on average. I'm going to give it a go.

 

[ed2hess]

With grass that tall won't it kill itself with lapping over?

 

[kmegan]

Yes, some of the grass does die underneath, but the soil seems to hold moisture longer. The grass that was not stressed by herbicide is still very green on the top. I would expect it would all be fairly brown if it was mowed.

 

[RigglePLC]

If you don't mind a few white flowers. This is also a good spot for Miniclover or Microclover. It adds naturally-fixed nitrogen every year. Self fertilizing.
https://www.outsidepride.com/

Of course, its a good spot for a wildflower meadow. Better yet, if you can add some perennial and self-seeding domestic flowers. A few clumps of black-eye Susan (Rudbeckia) or shasta Daisy. Shrubs, butterfly bush? Clumps of ornamental grass? Only where there is plenty of sun.

Near the tree shade--use ferns, ajuga, hosta, myrtle, euonymous, lamium, goutweed.

https://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/546/

And do not expect much from "shade seed". This idea is a big exaggeration. Shade seed is only slightly better than a sunny mix.

 

[That Guy Gary]

Core aeration reduces thatch buildup. We care for a few pure creeping red lawns and annual aeration is all they ever need.

 

[RigglePLC]

Is fine fescue really a shade grass?
If that is true, you would find a lot more fine fescue in the shady areas of lawns and not much bluegrass or rye.
When a mix of blue, rye and fine fescue has been planted, you would think fine fescue would predominate in the shade. Blue and rye should predominate in the sun. Check your properties. What happens in your town? Which species does best in the shade?

 

[hort101]

Is fine fescue really a shade grass?
If that is true, you would find a lot more fine fescue in the shady areas of lawns and not much bluegrass or rye.
When a mix of blue, rye and fine fescue has been planted, you would think fine fescue would predominate in the shade. Blue and rye should predominate in the sun. Check your properties. What happens in your town? Which species does best in the shade?

Imo in my area bluegrass is more of a sun lover but can get burnt out in the summer especially without irrigation and later to green up

I have seen the shady areas without bluegrass stay greener with less water

 

[KerbDMK]

Is fine fescue really a shade grass?
If that is true, you would find a lot more fine fescue in the shady areas of lawns and not much bluegrass or rye.
When a mix of blue, rye and fine fescue has been planted, you would think fine fescue would predominate in the shade. Blue and rye should predominate in the sun. Check your properties. What happens in your town? Which species does best in the shade?

Great question Riggle. This used to be a head scratcher for me too.

What I've found out is that fine fescue is a low input grass. It grows well in the shade, but doesn't want to be watered or fertilized very much. In most home lawn situations, the shady areas are fertilized and watered at the same rate as the sunny areas, so the grass in the sunny areas may get enough moisture to live, while the shady areas are getting too much water for the fine fescue. At the same time, the fine fescue in the sun is enjoying the lack of water and is even thickening and creeping in that part of the lawn even though it may protect itself and go dormant in high heat.

I have also read articles that have suggested increasing fertility levels to deter the growth of fine fescue in lawns .