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Ford F-250, oil leak on the head gasket

17K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  unkownfl 
#1 ·
I have a 2003, F-250, now with 47,000, 5.4L v-8. I've used it exclusively for my lawn service work, pulling a single axle trailer with a ZTR, w/b, hand mower, plus a few other items.

It has been solid, until mid-season. I noticed some spots where it is parked over night. And, I noticed small spots on the street or driveway where I parked for an hour or two, when working. The spots were not consistent -- sometimes seeing them, sometimes not. The oil level dropped, needing to add a quart about every three weeks. So, I knew it was coming from the engine crankcase, not the transmission. The drip location was at the bell housing -- rear of the engine, front of the transmission.

I work solo, and this is my only truck, so I needed to reach the end of the season. I did not want to give it up for repair, so kept watching the oil level closely.

I took it to a local shop last week for a preliminary assessment. The conclusion by two mechanics: Rear oil seal on the crankshaft.

I made an appointment for this week. They expected to have it for about six hours (one mechanic), but the day came and went, without getting it fixed. They dropped out the transmission, and found the rear of the engine dry. The suspected oil seal was not the problem.

They did find a few oil spots on the engine, valve covers, etc, but didn't consider them of significance. They let is run for awhile, took it for a drive, and confirmed the leak when putting it up on the rack again. After closer inspection, they believed that perhaps the oil was coming from the head gasket. A call to a local Ford service garage confirmed their suspicion. They learned that the problem is common on these engines. It area for leakage is the right side head gasket, near the rear of the engine. The dealership said they do a couple of these repairs each week.

The reason for the sporadic spots is that the oil may get too hot and be burned off if the engine has been running for awhile. If it gets started, and drives for a few blocks to the next job, it stays cold, and the oil will drip to the ground, leaving visible spots. When hot, the oil never reaches the ground, hence the spots/no spots pattern.

My mechanic has always worked closely with the dealership service manager, and has confidence in what he says. The pattern has been pull off the heads, get them measured, replace the gasket, reassemble, and put it back on the road. They have never had one return to the shop, nor had they ever had the heads milled.

The problem with this repair is that the engine is stuffed so far back into the cowling, access is impossible without a major shuffling of big parts. Either the engine has to be removed, or the cab has to be lifted. The suggestion is the second choice. Labor is expected to be 10-12 hours.

Does anybody have any like experiences? I've searched threads and I find people with this pickup/engine, or close in model year. I've thought about the tradeoff - replace, or repair, but believe I will take the repair route.

Am I getting a good story that others can back with experiences? Thanks.
 
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#28 ·
Update:

I have decided to do nothing right now. I know there is a problem, but manageable for a few months, at least. Between Dec 31 and Mar 15, I only drive 300-400 miles. I go through one tank of fuel during Jan and Feb.

I've driven very little the past two weeks, and don't see any spotting.

I had my eye on a 2012 F-250XL, but the dealer never followed through with getting me final information. I suppose they were so busy pushing out vehicles near the end of the year, a $27K vehicle was not worth the time. Also, in talking with my financial folks, the changes in taxes for 2013, I may be better to take the hit in 2013, not 2012. Putting a new vehicle on the road during the Winter months for so little driving was probably not a good idea either.

However, I am still thinking the $3K repair may be the best path for me. I will know better my long-term plans by mid-March, and the need of a work truck. I will be 72 next time around, and need to start making plans to wind down.

Thanks so much for all the comments and contributions to my thread. I appreciated the input.
 
#30 ·
Nice link to a thread full of people saying to either pull the motor, pull the cab, or use CUSTOM MADE tools. And an allen wrench? on head studs? Let me know how long that allen wrench lasts when you try and torque the studs.
You don't torque the stud's, you torque the nut's that go on the stud's.
I would not buy any replacement motor to replace this problem. I'd say that 3 out of 10 rebuilt engines are JUNK. Patched together junk.

72? That change's everything. I'd trade that peace of junk in for a rocking chair!
 
#31 ·
You don't torque the stud's, you torque the nut's that go on the stud's.
I would not buy any replacement motor to replace this problem. I'd say that 3 out of 10 rebuilt engines are JUNK. Patched together junk.

72? That change's everything. I'd trade that peace of junk in for a rocking chair!
Are you really busting his chops about being 72 and able to do this kind of work?
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#32 ·
Are you really busting his chops about being 72 and able to do this kind of work?
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No, not at all. Calm down. Go lay on the beach or something. There's no way I'll be able to do this work when I'm that age.
 
#33 ·
... Go lay on the beach or something. ....
Nah, no laying on the beach. The beach would be a good place to go if it wasn't for all the sand.

No rocking chair here either, no Lazy-Z-Boy, or any other such sitting furniture. Some of us don't "sit" very well.

However, we do like to drive our pickups, repair things, tow a trailer, ... be productive.
 
#34 ·
Nah, no laying on the beach. The beach would be a good place to go if it wasn't for all the sand.

No rocking chair here either, no Lazy-Z-Boy, or any other such sitting furniture. Some of us don't "sit" very well.

However, we do like to drive our pickups, repair things, tow a trailer, ... be productive.
I understand. My Grandfather had a grading/plumbing business from the end of the Korean war till about 1997 or so. Retired sat down and went down hill. Other then burying a dead cow or horse here and there he didn't do much. I miss riding in that ol' dump truck with him. He passed away on 6-29-12.
 
#35 ·
Update: I opted to do nothing about the leak. I changed oil in early Spring, and have driven it about the same as last season -- about 5,000 miles per year, mostly pulling a single-axle trailer filled with mowers and equipment.

I still get a very small leak, small spots on the driveway where it is parked, but only periodically. I changed oil in mid-Summer as well. Between the Spring change, and the Summer change, I added one quart to top it off. Since the mid-Summer change, I have added one quart. So, I am loosing about a quart every 2,500 miles, over a three month period. The leak does not appear to be progressing.

I now believe I made the right decision to do nothing. I'm more than happy to add one quart of oil now and then, rather than having spent $3,000 on the repair. Actually, I am happy to add the one quart, knowing I didn't spend $3,000. A couple of quarts of oil is very cheap, over against the repair.
 
#37 ·
You probably started driving easier once you knew the problem was the head gasket. If you start turning a lot of RPMs the oil builds up in the head and causes the leak to temporary get worse until it drains back. Highway speeds will cause this too if you travel long at high highway speeds.
 
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