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Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by immaculate mowing, Feb 1, 2014.
Thank you, SIR!
Our '08 5.4L F-250 gets quite reasonable mileage dry but throw ANY sort of trailer behind it and just watch the gas go in one pipe and out the other!
I use a 09 6.4L Diesel for pulling my 7x16 enclosed...IMO I don't buy a truck for mileage, I haul 3 mowers and all my tools and have to deal with hills on every route, so power was more important
i have an f250 with the 5.4 in it and have a 18ft trailer and a 16ft i can tell you that i defiantly get a lot better gas mileage with the 16ft.not sure what your pulling but ide say anything over 16ft and a diesel would be the way to go. Most of the time i go get a drink or food when i fill up.....never wanna look at the price when i fill up.
be careful and do a lot of research if you decide to buy a diesel. I am a diesel owner and fan but you must get the right motor. Stay away from early model duramax as these could cost you over $3000 in problematic injector replacements. In the fords get an early 2003 or older 7.3 powerstroke, I have a 2wd model that gets 15mpg towing 6500lbs enclosed trailer stop and go, mine is stick shift so you may lose 2mpg with auto trans. A 2003 1/2 - 2007 6.0 diesel is a nightmare all together with to many issues that WILL happen in time and could put you out of business. I pulled that same rig with a 2004 6.0 getting 11mpg. 2008-up 6.4 powerstroke is almost as bad as the 6.0 with multiple expensive repairs that will come yet with the 6.4 the motor, the engine will be salvageable in most cases. 6.4 got 12 mpg with that rig, it is a absolute monster though! Cummins have there quirks but all together there act is pretty well for the most part compared to later fords, but the the dodge truck body is junk in my personal opinion. If I were you I would get a 6.0 GM gas truck, a 2005 and up 5.4 gas 3 valve or a 2003 and under 7.3 powerstroke. I've been down this road of radiators, heads, egr coolers, turbos etc. And guess what it all cost more than 4 mpg at $1.00 less a gallon. You should buy a 7.3 but go with the gassers I suggested if you dont want or cant find 7.3. 2005 up duramax is good but my buddy only gets 11-12mpg so its not what your looking for.
There is so much misinformation in that post it's ridiculous
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Enlighten whiffyspark, this is from personal experiance
1. There's only a year and half of injector problems in duramax.
2. There is nothing wrong with owning a 6.0. If you have an 05+ almost all the problems are non existent. If you take care of the truck it will take care of you. 05+ had a redesigned head with larger dowel pin sizes. 04 and under can be made reliable for about $1500.
3. 6.4's hardly have any problems. Job 1 had a few radiator issues. The biggest issue is people letting them idle too long and treat them like eco boxes. If you get a job 2+ you will have no issues pretty much. If you want to delete it you'll have a 600 hp daily driver with tiny mods lol
4. Cummins aren't horrible. I really don't care for their transmissions before 08. They have always been the weak link.
5. I wouldn't bother buying a 7.3. They are old, slow, and noisy. This is dinosaur technology going on here lol. Low sulfur diesel doesn't play too well with them either. Not to mention stupid expensive to repair their own issues. Rotted out oil pans anyone?
That's if you can even find a 7.3 that is afforable without 300k miles on it,
"I wouldn't bother buying a 7.3. They are old, slow, and noisy. This is dinosaur technology going on here lol. Low sulfur diesel doesn't play too well with them either. Not to mention stupid expensive to repair their own issues. Rotted out oil pans anyone?"
This above statement shows the wealth of your great knowledge of diesel vehicles. First off what are the 7.3's expensive issues? I recall putting 125K miles on my 150k mile truck with nothing but maintenance.
I will humor you though, "my posts are so full of misinformation that if you read your own you just admitted to the problems I stated". Let me guess you have newer ford diesel and are offended that you had no clue what you were buying and must defend that they are great because you now own one.
1. That is amazing that General Motors extended the warranty on ALL 1999-mid 2004 Duramax LB7 fuel injectors when only 1 and a half years of production were problamatic! GM should have hired you and they could have save hundreds of thousands on warranty repairs. Why are you cutting grass?
2. You can not bullet proof a 6.0 for $1500 my friend, if you paid someone that to fix yours I have bad news for you.... its gonna go kabooom! Theres nothing wrong with owning a 6.0 EXCEPT Cooling system problems leading to overheating, egr problems and ooopppsss the head bolts!
3. 6.4 ford diesels, turbo failures ($4500-$6000 dealer repairs), smoking and engine skipping from loss of compression due to egr failure causing hydrolocking destroying pistons and cracking the bore of the block in most cases, melting plastic radiators and so on.
4. you agreed with me here
5.What problematic expensive repairs for a 7.3 besides a 15 year old oil pan rotting. A 15 year old 7.3 will last tons longer than a 6.4
From what I have found from working on all these differant brands is the 6.4 radiator problems were from bad egr coolers or head gaskets leaking boost in to the coolant system same with a 6.0 and bullet proofing a 6.0 for 1500 the last 12 I have done I have charged $2800 to $4000 depending on other problems and as for the dodge trans in most cases it is due to lack on maintenance u are suppose to adjust the bands it each service if you are one of the few that do actually do change your fluid. And 7.3 a stock one is slow with a few mods they can have great power and still be a very reliable motors the ex low sulfer fuel should only take one fix new oring around a few $100 in parts and labor.