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Formal Water Feature with Segmented Wall Block

Discussion in 'Water Features' started by tslandscaping, Apr 18, 2010.

  1. tslandscaping

    tslandscaping LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    Hey guys, I have a few questions about raised ponds. I am mostly a hard-scaper, but I do the occasional pond. I got a request today for a raised pond/ fountain, in a segmented retaining wall circle. The fountain is a large, 1,000 pound, brass basin that his held up by a a few brass angels. The job is a lot more ostentatious than most of my normal work, but the customer is adamant. Here is a basic sketch (I haven't hat time to do a formal CAD drawing):[​IMG]

    Here is my game plan:

    1. pour a concrete footer for the fountain, using sonotube and raised to the finished height of the pond.

    2. Place geotex, followed by a pond membrane, over the footer.

    3. Place the fountain on top of the membrane on the footer.

    4. Build a 10 ft. diameter pond, around the fountain, held in by segmented wall block.

    What is the best way to secure the rubber to the block? I don't want any of the rubber showing, should I be considering an alternative to the rubber? Maybe something more formal.

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  2. tadpole

    tadpole LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,221

    Assuming that the customer is not planning on fish, I would make it simple and construct the entire feature with concrete and seal it with an epoxy coating in the customers choice of colors. Doing a circular pond with EPDM would result in a lot of folds in the liner which would have to be attached with term bars. A lot more labor and would not be as clean and neat as concrete.
  3. tslandscaping

    tslandscaping LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    The customer was hoping to have fish. That was why I was leaning towards the EPDM liner. I was hoping to build a small shelf on the perimeter of the pond and place cobble stones, to hide the liner.

    Has anyone ever secured the liner to the segmented block caps?
  4. tadpole

    tadpole LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,221

    See my last post in this thread.

    You will still be dealing with several folds in the liner. I still recommend either mortaring or concreting the inside of the pond and applying a 'Fish Safe' coating such as Koi Kote or Pond Armor.
    Allowance must also be made for the incorporation of a bio-filter. A must if Fish are to be added.
  5. tslandscaping

    tslandscaping LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    Thanks for the replies. The PondArmor sounds like a great alternative.

    I already have to pour the footer for the fountain. Maybe I will extend the footer out to the diameter of the pond, but keep it at the right depth. Using the sonotube I can go up to the finished fountain height, in the center. Then, using mortared cinder block, I can build my wall around the outside, 2ft up. Put cultured stone on the exterior and a bluestone cap on top with the Pond Armor, sealing the inside of the pond.

    I think this would look nicest.

    What is the best way to get my irrigation line for an auto fill valve, and electrical for the pumps and lighting into the pond?
  6. tadpole

    tadpole LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,221

    Sounds like it is all coming together in your mind. That is the construction method that I would use.

    The irrigation can be trenched in and brought up inside the cinder block. It can exit the block at whatever location you find best. If this is underwater, 'Pond Putty' can be used to create a watertight seal. The electrical can be done similarly, but you need to check your local building codes as to placement of the GFI outlet. In my area, it must be at least 5 feet from any water. Or you could direct wire.
    Application of the 'Pond Armor' should be the last stage of construction unless you are going to have recessed lighting.
    Completed project should look sharp. Post pics!
  7. tslandscaping

    tslandscaping LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    This does sound like the ideal construction, but it is going to be a hell of a lot more expensive. That is a lot of concrete, I live in the northeast and it is solid clay. I will need to go down 5ft with the base, at a 10 foot diameter I am looking at around 15 yards. Ouch!

    That being said, it will probably last longer than the house.
  8. tadpole

    tadpole LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,221

    Not at all familiar with construction techniques in the Northeast, but does this mean that the original Sonotube that you were going to use as a base for the pedestal would have been 5 feet deep? Sounds like some very unstable soil.

    Good Luck!

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