[DA Quality Lawn & YS]

Ok, those guys that own a Pathfinder, or even a PG for that matter...

I have found over the past few weeks that I am having to shove the gearshift lever pretty hard to the right to get either low or high gear to engage. Almost like I can't shove the shifter over far enough to get high gear. Also, the shift lever seems 'sloppy' like there is something loose connecting the shift lever to the tranny rod. Or perhaps stripped out?

Unfortunately, you can't see or get at the top of the tranny without dropping it out I think. Which sucks.

Anyone have similar issues?

 

[RigglePLC]

Permagreen--years ago. Peerless transmission.
I suggest double check the level of oil in the tranny. There must be a place to check it, and a specified level--right? Use the right type of oil as suggested by GL. Too stiff when cold? Make sure the tranny lever moves freely if disconnected from the shifter rod.
When apart--naturally, be sure to check the shifter mechanism so that it is not binding or bent, and well-lubricated at all contact points and pivots.

 

[Mr Efficiency]

Ok, those guys that own a Pathfinder, or even a PG for that matter...

I have found over the past few weeks that I am having to shove the gearshift lever pretty hard to the right to get either low or high gear to engage. Almost like I can't shove the shifter over far enough to get high gear. Also, the shift lever seems 'sloppy' like there is something loose connecting the shift lever to the tranny rod. Or perhaps stripped out?

Unfortunately, you can't see or get at the top of the tranny without dropping it out I think. Which sucks.

Anyone have similar issues?

I know them trans well and I have taken them appart before to repair them when having magnums.
Problem is getting them appart. Bolts holding case together rust solid into the aluminum. Second magnum I bought new years ago I pulled the trans when new and put never seize on all the case bolts and did same with a trans I had bought as a replacement for one.

What happens is inside the trans there is a flimsy round to flat metal where the shifter shifts the gears that cracks and then breaks off eventualy. Play is usualy first sign it is going. The shifter arm usualy never comes lose from the shifter stud.

The main reason that it happens is because there is so much jolting strains on the part from kicking the gear shifter with your foot through the gears.

It is most likely you will need a new trans soon.

Permagreen Triumphs don't have that issue because they went from a foot shifter to a hand one with trans shifter saver fuse. Few dollar Plastic fuse will go before the metal piece in the trans does.

 

[DA Quality Lawn & YS]

Great, new tranny at 250 hours? Things hardly broke in....

 

[turfguru4u]

If it is a peerless like the permagreen there is connector plate that fits over the small shift stud in the trans. both these surfaces can begin to round off. I used to pull the tranny and shim the surfaces with thin metal and tap the connector down and re-bolt. I've also taken a bur grinder to the shift arm so that it has room to get into gear before it hits the frame.

 

[lawn king]

My pathfinder can be a bit pissy about shifting at times, I never shift with my foot and I usually rock the machine a bit when I shift. Im a big fan of hydrostatic propulsion in equipment, all my equipment is hydro, with the exception of my ground logic, I prefer the gear tranny in spreader/sprayers!

 

[Mr Efficiency]

My pathfinder can be a bit pissy about shifting at times, I never shift with my foot and I usually rock the machine a bit when I shift. Im a big fan of hydrostatic propulsion in equipment, all my equipment is hydro, with the exception of my ground logic, I prefer the gear tranny in spreader/sprayers!

Edit, ...

Don't shift with your foot? I thought GL have a foot shifter like magnums had?
....

Many don't rock the machines while shifting so there is not much pressure in the inner weak link in the trans. Helps to engaging the brake first then rock and shift, little less abuse on the trans.

I don't think the GL have a trans brake to break the trans and front tires like PG Triumph have, that trans break makes it easy when wanting to shift.

 

[DA Quality Lawn & YS]

If it is a peerless like the permagreen there is connector plate that fits over the small shift stud in the trans. both these surfaces can begin to round off. I used to pull the tranny and shim the surfaces with thin metal and tap the connector down and re-bolt. I've also taken a bur grinder to the shift arm so that it has room to get into gear before it hits the frame.

Thanks....I think Ill go the route of grinding a little metal off the shift arm so it will kick to high gear easier. Not wanting to pull the tranny at all.....

 

[turfguru4u]

That's exactly what I did first. Before I changed out the tranny last year I had a lot of slop both forward and backward. The PG kicker bar is over an inch wide and about 1/4-3/8 inch thick. You can remove a lot of meat and not worry about it breaking off.

 

[CANNINGTON TurfGRASS]

Hydro units are the way to go….learned this the hard way.

 

[DA Quality Lawn & YS]

Hydro units are the way to go….learned this the hard way.

Yeah but you can get some good wear out of a GL or PG too. BTW the best PG made was the old Centri with the hand level gear shift. Having a foot kick was never a good idea.