Good Info about Oil.

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Precision, Nov 28, 2006.

  1. vermonta

    vermonta LawnSite Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 87

    Just came upon this thread and thought I would put in my 2 cents.

    I personally use synthetic in everything ..(From my F350 Power Stroke 15-40 to the 8HP motor 10-30 on my sanders for winter 15-50 in the mowers both hydro and engines).. I have except my Kubota and only because I haven't researched to see what I should use.

    I would like anything for info on what is the best filter to use though.

    I have heard that the Purolator Plus is a really good filter and seems to be made well.

    Any ideas?
  2. pitbull8151

    pitbull8151 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    I say a Donaldson Endurance series filter for equipment. Has a great filtration %.
  3. hgh623

    hgh623 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 30

    I use Synthetic oils in all my engines, cars, trucks and mowers.
    It time to change the oil in my mower Hydro's, manual calls for 20w50w motor oil.
    For all the same reasons Syn is better in an engine is it also good for the Hydro's?
  4. pitbull8151

    pitbull8151 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    Synthetic is better for hydro also. It will run cooler and syn. is better on hoses.
  5. hgh623

    hgh623 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 30

    Posted via Mobile Device
  6. PatrickGSR94

    PatrickGSR94 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 32

    Best oil info I've seen is from a guy named Dr. Haas on the Ferrari Chat website:

    Each number in the oil viscosity designation refers to a particular weight when cold (i.e. during cold startup, which can be summer also!) and when at operating temperature. Generally the higher the number, the thicker the oil. However each number CAN NOT be directly correlated to each other!

    So for example 10w30 and 10w40 will be about the same viscosity under about 100 degrees or so, but the 10w30 will be thinner at operating temperature of 170-190 degrees.

    Similarly, 5w30 will be thinner than 10w30 when cold, but both will be about the same at operating temperature.

    However, a 5w or even a 0w will be much thicker at cold startup than even a 20-weight oil like 5w20. This means the oil has a more difficult time getting in between bearings at initial startup, which also means that around 80% of engine wear happens within the first few minutes of starting a cold (under 100 degrees) engine.

    For this reason, it's really best to find the oil with the thinnest cold viscosity that still has the correct operating temperature viscosity. This will help reduce engine wear that occurs during cold startup. This is why I switched my Acura Integra GS-R with over 300K miles over to Mobil1 synthetic 0w-30 (factory calls for 5w30, or 10w30 if climate doesn't get too cold). Been using it for a couple of years now and the car still averages 32 mpg. The car went nearly 200K miles using Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 synthetic blend before that.

    If I ran a yard business I would probably do the same - use the oil with the thinnest cold viscosity that still has the correct operating temp viscosity. I know Mobil1 has 0w-20 and 0w-30. Not sure if anyone makes a 0w-40.
  7. PatrickGSR94

    PatrickGSR94 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 32

    Also the "W" does NOT stand for "winter".

    From SAE J300 p.2:
    "Two series of viscosity grades are defined in Table (1): (a) those containing the letter W and (b) those without. Single viscosity grade oils with the letter W are defined by maximum low temperature cranking and pumping viscosities and a minimum kinematic viscosity at 100C. Single grade oils without the letter W are based on a set of minimum and maximum kinematic viscosities at 100C and a minimum high shear rate viscosity at 150C. The shear rate will depend on the test method. Multi-grade grade oils are defined by both of these criteria....
    The W is just a designation of one type of testing vs another.
  8. 360ci

    360ci LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 998

    I just Amsoil everything.
    JaekayDesign likes this.
  9. elbow300

    elbow300 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 52

    I run Amsoil engine oil as well with excellent results so far. I have bought a case of interceptor 2 stroke mix, and so far I am mixing at about 80 to 1. The directions say to mix at 100 to 1, but I would like to hear from someone running that lean prior to risking our backpack blowers and trimmers. We run Stihl BR 600s and Red max 8500s.
  10. Squidbill

    Squidbill LawnSite Member
    from Florida
    Messages: 8

    I stopped using echo oil mix.
    2 strokes i use stihl as stated in their label mixtures.
    It just didn't sound right with the echo oil.
    When you go synthetic you can never go back to conventional.
    I build engines for a living.
    Nissan Race engines.
    I don't use synthetics in my race car.
    I just change my oils constantly.
    I have people bring me mowers and they have never changed the oil.
    temps it's what affects oils.
    If you know what temps your dealing with and find the correct viscosity then you don't have to worry about anything.
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012

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