Good Info about Oil.

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Precision, Nov 28, 2006.

  1. cpllawncare

    cpllawncare LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,659

    I have always heard not to switch from synth to conv but I did on my 05 F-150 am I in trouble?
  2. BillWil

    BillWil LawnSite Member
    Messages: 78

    NO! When syn first came out people said that you shouldn't change over. I have done it on equipment and cars and trucks, both gas and disel. Never a problem.
  3. Pierre2013

    Pierre2013 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,237

    You should be fine, tough I'm curious why you did that?

    What happens when switching an old, or high mileage vehicle from conventional oil to synthetic oil is that the detergent in the synthetic oil will really clean up the inside of your engine and remove the sludge built up from using conventional oil. And sometimes, that sludge is the only thing preventing your seals from leaking.

    In most cases, there won't be a leak, but it does happen.

    In your case; you are going from a sludge free engine to using an oil which will create deposits over time. So you should be fine.
    KyBluGrass likes this.
  4. MrNetvestor

    MrNetvestor LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    There is NO problem switching from Dino to Synth oil or Vice Versa.....

    Also consider that in newer oils the zinc additive ZDDP has been reduced significantly to protect emission equipment in cars. This can have a detrimental effect on older / air cooled engines. I believe some of the "High Mileage" versions of oils come with higher amounts of ZDDP. You can also buy the additive from Lucas, GM and others.

    Another factor to consider is break down at high heat and Flash Point. Many dino oils do better than synthetics in this category.

    That said, I've used synthetics since the 80's and have never had any issues. IMO, their pluses outweigh their shortcomings.

    PS: Many (if not most) "Synthetic" oils sold here in the US would not be considered synthetic in Europe. It's actually pretty tough to determine what is a "true" synth. Unless you know for sure what basestock is used and how it's blended you'll never know for sure.
  5. Valk

    Valk LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,758

  6. tigerepairdotcom

    tigerepairdotcom LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 330

    JASO certified Oil

    Another institute that certifies oils is called the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization, JASO.

    I am a certified advanced Diagnosis technician for redmax Stihl and Briggs
    2 stroke Redmax engines call for 2 stroke engine oil with JASO certification.
  7. joe billy

    joe billy LawnSite Member
    Messages: 35

    Good information guys....
    Posted via Mobile Device
  8. Tdog123

    Tdog123 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 6

    So, new guy here, and there seems to be much debate as to which oil. I just bought a used Scag with low hours and am getting ready to change the engine and hydraulic oil. All the different thoughts/opinions can really cloud the decision process. My manual calls for 10w-30 in engine and 20w-50 in the hydraulics. Considering Rotella T 5w-40 for the engine and Mobil 20w-50 for the hydraulics. I'm sold on the Mobil 1 20-50should I stay with 10w-30 for the engine or will the Rotella T 5W-40 be ok. I'm in Florida with high temps. Choices, choices???
  9. Tdog123

    Tdog123 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 6

    Couldn't figure out how to edit previous post but, I went with the Rotella T6 5w-40. It has the JASO rating and it's on sale at Autozone for $105 for the 5 gallon bucket with a $25 rebate(limit 2). I picked up a couple as my Truck and Tractor are both diesel. Will be interesting to see if I can tell any difference in the mower/engine temps.
  10. jakewells

    jakewells LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    i use rotella t 5w40 so shoot me haha. never had a problem with it and change it every 75 hrs and always comes out clean.

Share This Page