Gravel Road Install

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by raschmid07, May 29, 2007.

  1. raschmid07

    raschmid07 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 122

    Hey guys, I have just been contacted by one of my best and closest clients to help fix a problem at one of his properties. He has three lots in one of the nicest sections of town, all heavily wooded. Because of a lack of care, the gravel road entering and going throughout the property has either washed away or simply been miskept. As of now, I am going to spread gravel on roughly the first third of the project, to allow for a simple entrance. By my calculations, this first third of it is 528 ft. long by roughly 11.5 ft wide. There is already a decent crown to the road and the drainage has pretty much mad its own path off of the road. I deal more with landscaping and mowing than rough roadbuilding, so I was wondering how much gravel and of what size I should have to give to the different firms to bid on. I will be doing the Bobcat work myself, so this is not a problem. Thanks in advance for your help.
  2. SiteSolutions

    SiteSolutions LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,114

    530' x 12' x .2' = 1272 cu ft
    1272 cu ft / 3 = 47.1 cu yards
    47.1 yds x 2700 lbs/yd = 127,170 lbs
    127,170 lbs / 2000 = 64 tons

    If you have tri-axles in Knoxville, that's about 3 truck loads to put about 2.5 inches on the whole thing. A tandem dump truck will do it in 4 loads. Either way, that would be about $1000 worth of rock down here.

    I would use 3/4" Pug Mix or, if you have a way to wet it down, you can get 3/4" Crusher Run. After you spread it out, make sure you walk it in good with the machine or run over it with a roller. If you do this while it is wet, the fines in the product will lock in the bigger rocks and it will set up hard as a rock. I am assuming the drive is made of crushed limestone and not river gravel or some other decorative stone.

    Good luck! I have had some good success with driveway rehabs, extensions, etc. Just make sure the stuff is wet when you put it down so it will pack in good and set up hard. It's a lot less dusty that way, too!
  3. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,504

    Dad had a gravel hauling business for several years. This really depends on how much money you want to stick in it. To do it correct you need a good base. You need to cut it down 3 or 4 inches. I would put in number two's or number four's. I would then come in and top it off with number 57's or crushed run. Only problem with crushed run is it packs hard but often you have to keep adding more and it gets messy especially like on a car or your shoes. Most roads have a 2% slope from the center to the edge. Also depending on the wash outs and where at you may need some type of pipe installed under the road to direct the water to the other ditch. From what it sounds like there is just bad spots here and there in the road. You may just want to fix those places with number two's and then top it off with what you want for a finish. From what it sounds like this is more or less just a long lane not really a road so it should not need a whole lot because I doubt it gets allot of travel. Remember the smaller the finish rock the quicker you can travel on it but also it is good for slinging up and chiping the pain in the vehicles.
  4. Gravel Rat

    Gravel Rat LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,544

    The first thing your going need to do is go and grade the road flat to fill in the wash outs. Use the existing material then compact that down you will have to rent a compactor of some sort a skid steer isn't enough weight to compact. Once you have the road back to respectable shape then you can go over top with some 3/4 road base and pack that in and crown the road or bank it so the water drains to either side.

    I don't know how heavy of a skid steer you have but it might not have enough power to reshape the existing road back into a level base. Myself and most other operators in my area would use a excavator and clean up bucket to do 90% of the job. Scrape the road down fill in the holes and dig some ditches or swails to divert the water if its been a real problem. With a excavator and steel tracks it can pack in the existing dirt by walking over it.

    Bring in some gravel and have the truck spread it if the driver can do it. If not spread the piles so your not trying to move a large amount of gravel at once.

    As for amound of gravel depends on how bad the road is after you spread the existing material around. I wouldn't spread it any thinner than 3 inches so you can put a good cap on top of the driveway. Put 4-5 inches on top and pack it down good then you have enough to regrade the road later on if it gets pot holes.

    I caculated you would need 118 yards if you put it at 6 inches thick that also gives you extra for future pot hole filling. The guy is going to need more gravel anyways for the rest of the road. That would be 10 tandem axle truck loads at 12 yards a load which is bugger all. We have had driveways shorter than that take 30 loads to get it back into shape.

    My estimated cost for the gravel alone will be 2500 dollars Canadian add in trucking at 80 bucks per hour say 2 hours a trip so 1600 dollars in trucking.
  5. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,504

    A roadgrader or small bulldozer would be great for this job if you had access to one. It can be done with a CTL/MTL or skid steer but will take more time. There is several going in around here that size with a CTL. Like other said your going to have some money in gravel. I would call and get prices on the gravel and what it will cost to haul it before I give him a price and add on some. Like i said before see if you need any pipe or need to make a ditch on each side to get rid of the waterflow. I always loved putting in lanes and pipe.
  6. SiteSolutions

    SiteSolutions LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,114

    For fv<ks sake! What you really need is one of these:
    It will recycle the current road bed down to 24". Then put in 1400 cu yds of concrete with rebar.

    Or, start with this:
    And excavate down to bedrock. Bring in 24,500 yards of rip rap, top with 17" of asphalt.

    Or, just spread a thin topping on an existing base and get a good solid driveway.
  7. raschmid07

    raschmid07 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 122

    Hey guys, thanks for all of your help on this project. Sorry I'm just now getting back to everyone but I've been at college orientation then a few rush parties. As of now I think I'm gonna go with around 80 yards, and I'm slowly talking to all the major trucking firms around here to get some bids. Now my main question, which you all have brought up, is what type of equipment to go with. I'm leaning towards gettin a bulldozer or even something in the Cat 953 range so that I have loader capabilities also. So what do you all think about this idea?
  8. Digdug

    Digdug LawnSite Member
    Messages: 125

    Racsh, it would be nice if you could get the gravel delivered in ten wheeler dumps and carefully tailgate the material along the road bed. This is what we would do. 3/4" crushed gravel if the existing base is good. Spread with dozer and back drag. We would also estimate approx. 10% extra material for inconsistency etc. This can also be done with your bobcat (i think you mentioned) if need be. Good luck. doug
  9. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,504

    Well, as stated before depends on how thick your putting it on and how far your going to go into this job. If your just going to fix the bad places and tailgate over the rest than the skidsteer is fine. If your going to tear the old driveway out and put a new in than the dozer is the best bet. You will need to get rid of the old dirt and rock this way though. It's hard to say what need to be done without seeing it. How much percentage of the road is still there that is good with a good base? I think that will tell ya allot.
  10. SiteSolutions

    SiteSolutions LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,114

    I would agree with Fieldman; just to fix up an existing road a skid steer should be more than adequate, especially if you already have one and if you have some experience spreading material. Renting should only cost 150 - 200 bucks / day.

    I priced large Cat machines from the dealer here once; he would only rent them by the month and the big loaders and dozers (953, 963, D5, D6 - which cost 2-3 hundred grand new) were about 10 grand to rent! The United Rentals had a track loader (JD 455 / 555) for about 700 a day, but it was old and pedal-steer and I doubt I would have been much good on it for fine grading work, plus the knee factor. That is why I personally would not go larger, although you may have better machines available at reasonable prices in your area. Here, it was either too expensive or too junky.

    Like Digdug said, Definitely be on site when the crushed stone is delivered, and ask the driver to tailgate or "chain" it out. Most drivers are happy to do so as it is a chance to show off that truck driving actually requires skill. At least, that is how I used to look at it when I drove a dump truck ten years ago. This will save you hours of work on a job this size.

    I have found that a nice heavy work truck rolls wet pug mix in pretty well. A small roller would be easier to use, maybe quicker, but cost more money and probably only weigh half what your truck weighs, so you should get plenty of compaction from your truck. Usually, after a couple good rains with some traffic, this stuff settles in pretty solid.

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