Guidance wanted for patio and seat wall

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by DFLS, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. DFLS

    DFLS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 354

    I will be doing a 20 x 20 patio with pavers, it will be 8 - 10 inches above the existing grade of the backyard, flush with the bottom of the back door threshold (basically no step down to the patio). It will have a short seat wall around the perimeter with an opening with a step to the lawn area on each side. Two planters will be incorporated into the seat wall along the back seat wall. I have never incorporated a seat wall / planter into a patio but I have done several walls and several patios. This is my thinking, give me some guidance if you can.

    1) It is new construction(addition to a house) so I need to dig along the foundation to the footings and replace the backfill with what? Crushed limestone or can I use recycled process? Layered and tamped.

    2) There are tree roots that I will be digging out under the proposed patio. Therefore there will be approximately 20 + inches of base under the patio (excavated roots 10"+ deep plus 10" above grade final height. I will layer and water / tamp the process in 6" increments. The base of the perimeter seat wall will be below grade as usual but I will make the base material extend out 12" beyond the edge of the finished wall.

    3) We have not picked out a block for the seat wall / planters, suggestions are appreciated here. Any pictures would help also.

    4) I would like to add short pillars on the two corners with lights on them and a light on each step. My thinking is to keep all the wiring outside of the wall along the base to be accessible.

    5) Should I pitch the patio to the back edge with drains along the seat wall or to each side step?

    5) Is it a good idea or not to install fabric under the base material?

    6) Joints will be polymeric sand.

    Any ideas on labor pricing that you have are welcome. Thanks in advance.
  2. DFLS

    DFLS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 354

    24 hrs and no responses??
  3. DFLS

    DFLS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 354

    So everyone is so tired from working all day and can offer no opinions?
  4. Drew Gemma

    Drew Gemma LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,508

    Can't remember all of them use ep henry if you can their products are the best wish I could get them in Ohio. New addition -you are gonna have to over dig to get to unspoiled earth and compact from their up. Slope away from house is always best option if available. Most products you will have to build a double wall for planter / bench the outer is for caps to set on thus giving you a sitting area check suppliers to see what works. Always use fabric to separate sub soil and base material. We use a mix of limestone known as d9 and 57 also called 411 around here tree roots well good luck with that remove to many kill the tree or it can lose its anchor and be unstable. Hope that helps their are other guys who know way more than me but that is all I can remember of what you asked
  5. DFLS

    DFLS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 354

    Thanks for response. If you forget what questions you are responding to just scroll down and read the post it is below the reply field.

    The tree is about 30 feet from the patio,a big maple, probably taking out 10 percent or les of the roots just a few long stragglers.
  6. DFLS

    DFLS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 354

    Am I on the right path here?
  7. zedosix

    zedosix LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,663

    Lots of questions there, maybe you scared everyone off. To try and answer most your questions.

    1. I wonder if your were to install a concrete slab near the foundation instead of excavating the entire way down. I would excavate a couple of feet and compact then lay a concrete slab reinforced into the existing foundation wall.
    2. I don't agree with your idea of having "no step" at the patio door, you are inviting problems with moisture and a possilbe back draft of water if there were to be high winds with rain. If you made even a 3" step this would make the world of difference.
    3. Why not work with unilocks "brussels dimensional block" . Easy to work with, quality product and lays fast with no fuss. The picture I sent is of this product.
    4 With this product you can run the wires up the middle of the columns then under the seat if you need. When this block is laid out in 2' x 2' squares you will end up with the necessary room inside to work the wires.
    5. Try to drain the patio to the sides if possible, the seat wall won't give a chance for any drainage. In the next picture you can see where we put a drain. It works well.
    6. Install your geo-tex on a compacted smooth sub-grade.
    7. Have fun.The seat wall is not my work by the way, just something I came across the other day.

    work 08 095 (Medium).jpg

    work 08 097 (Medium).jpg

    Bilodeau project 078 (Medium) (2).jpg

Share This Page