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Guying-Stakeing of Trees

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by kutnkru, Mar 26, 2001.

  1. kutnkru

    kutnkru LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,662

    I was just curious how those here like to fasten their trees after planting them to keep the camber going in the right direction?

    I have used old hoses cut into strips and wraped once around the trunk or limb with long wires thru them.

    These wires are then fastened to ropes that have been attached to 14" 2x2 stakes that are hammered into the ground.

    Thanks for your thoughts and ideas.

  2. Lanelle

    Lanelle LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,361

    That's the way we do it, except that we use taller stakes. Also, what size trees are you talking about? Large trees, more than 3" caliper, may not need staking if the root ball is correctly sized. You might want to look at the planting standards published by ALCA.
  3. stockie

    stockie LawnSite Member
    Messages: 46

    hey guys
    im in school now for landscaping and we have been told time and time again that staking trees is a HUGE mistake, and should only be done if extream circumstances make it a must. Not only do the ropes cause damage to the trunks, but when they are staked, it prevents the tree from swaying in the wind, and when the tree sways, it is what stimulates root growth, hence, a tree that is not allowed to sway, does not establish a strong root system. I have not had one prof. say that a tree should be staked.
  4. Gtotoy

    Gtotoy LawnSite Member
    Messages: 171

    I almost never stake my tree's, only if it starts to lean, I'd say on the average i only have to go back and stake 1 out of 40 trees.
  5. jonspolaris

    jonspolaris LawnSite Member
    Messages: 130

    would u guys still stake evergreen trees?? i have to do a few evergreens this summer and dont want to loose them. i was told because the evergreen had such a high profile that it can blow over eaiser, compaired to a desiduous tree.

    help should i stake them or not??

  6. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,073


    The 'duckbill' system is one of the nicest/easiest ways, but they are a little pricy (between $40-80 a set). Sometimes they are hard to get into rocky soil, but still easier than driving traditional stakes.

  7. site

    site LawnSite Member
    Messages: 168

    We only stake trees when homeowners or architects insist on it. We try to talk everyone out of it because of the reasons stated above. When we do stake we try to remove the stakes within about 2 months to allow the trees to do their thing. When planting big evergreens 12'+ our new trick is to leave the rootball tied up until the excavated soil stabilizes. We go back later and cut them open. I can hear a lot of you guys gasping and thinking this is wrong, but we lose a lot less trees this way. If the tree falls over once the ball has been opened chances are it will die and soon.
  8. dan deutekom

    dan deutekom LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 424

    I only stake trees if it is absoloutly needed. Our school also showed us studies done that staking of trees cause the stem to become brittle and this can show up years later when older trees break in the wind just above where they were staked. Seems old ideas tend to stick around because many Landscape arch. still want staking all the time and tree wound dressing on all cuts. I have been trying to leave the root ball tied also but the problem is getting back to untie it later. Of course I have seen trees with stakes actually grown into the trunks because no one got back to remove them either.
  9. kutnkru

    kutnkru LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,662

    I was referring as Lanelle mentioned to less than a 3" caliber. Do they instruct you not to do so for these "saplings" as well?? I understand not doing so to larger sized specimens.

    As for treating them with a wound dressing, I learned it was better to let the sap form its own sealant than apply the paints etc.

    One other thing that I have heard several debates on is that if you loosen the soil too much outside the rootball that the root system becomes weaker and cannot branch out into the compacted soil once it reaches the end of the excavation. Anyone have any insight or findings on this argument??

    Good Luck this season!
  10. DeepDivot

    DeepDivot LawnSite Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 44

    I'd have to say the college profs aren't from Kansas. You MAY get by without staking some balled/burlapped ones, but the smaller 1-2 gallon bucket trees wouldn't stand a chance.

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