[airtas]

I had a stump removed from some arborvites near my foundation.
What is the best way to grade so I am going away from the foundation or am ok just eye balling? A video would be nice if there was one.

I also learned it is hard to grow grass after stump removal due to acidity but nitrogen can help?

Any tips on either? Still in the process of picking the wood chips.

 

[grass4gas]

I would say just follow the existing grade. You are right in getting rid of those chips. Once you do that, add soil and tamp down the first few inches. This will depend on how deep the hole is. You want to reduce as much settling as possible. Ideally, the top 4-6” should be loose enough for the roots to grow deeper. You probably are acidic in that area, so you may need to add some lime In with your topsoil.

 

[Mark Stark]

Get rid of all wood chips. Add good topsoil. Use more than you think you'll need to compensate for settling. Use good quality seed. Use good starter fertilizer. Add peat moss. Grad with a rake. Easy Peasy lemon squeeze!

 

[Toro44]

I dig out everything that the stump grinder loosened up

 

[zlandman]

I wonder 🤔 would grass seed and water help?

 

[RigglePLC]

What state?
Enter your town in the soil temp map to check for soil temperature.

Soil Temparature Maps | GreenCast | Syngenta

www.greencastonline.com

You need to move fast to avoid the cold temperatures.
I would suggest pre-germination of the seed indoors where it is warm. After about 24 hours you can remove the water by straining it through window screen, or any convenient fabric. Use a seed with plenty of perennial rye for quicker germination. If you are in a rush--spread the seed by hand, even if it is still moist.
If you don't want to remove the water, just spread (the seed and water slurry) with a paper cup, like a liquid seed solution.
Rake in the seed. Add starter fert. Water every day for 30 days.
Do not believe the seed package if it says 5 pounds, "Covers up to 4800 sqft." That is a big exaggeration--maybe so--under ideal laboratory conditions. Use plenty of seed; try to get about 20 seeds per square inch. Maybe 5 pounds per thousand sqft. This because under the usual outdoor conditions the germination is less
Germination will be slowed by cool temps--not much happens below 50 degrees.
Cool season grass?
In theory, frost will not damage new grass.
And if the seed waits to germinate until spring--the seed will still be OK.
Seeding on top of snow actually works. It germinates and comes up about the date of the first mowing in your town. The third week of April in my town in Michigan.

 

[gardiner]

Myself I would. Buy.
4 bags of topsoil
1 small bag starter fertilizer.
3 pound bag of seed.

Leaf rake out the bigger chunks.
Dump One bag soil directly where the stump was.
Use your body weight to pack it in.
Coat the area with remaining 3 bags soil.
Put down your.
Seed & starter fertilizer.
Using the back side of the leaf rake.
To lightly mix the seed into the soil.
If you have any seed left.
Throw a couple hand fulls on it.
For good measure.
Lightly water the area.
To get the seed to stay.
Wet it down every morning.

 

[RigglePLC]

I reseeded a small bare spot cause by a mole on September 29.
Seed was Evolution, a mainly tall fescue mix with a bit of rye and blue.
Temperature was 56 F with a night low of 46. and soil temp of 59 according to a nearby ag weather station. Light rain. No irrigation.
At 12 days the tallest sprout was 1 inch tall. This time the air was at 55, minimum last night air temp 29, and the soil temp at was at 50.
My photo does not show much.
So it is late--but at least it is a start.