Heavy Haulers

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by PlantscapeSolutions, Dec 24, 2013.

  1. PlantscapeSolutions

    PlantscapeSolutions LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,012

    I'm on gooseneck hitch number four with my truck. Two versions of the OEM Mopar hitch and one Unagoose which is supposed to be the strongest hitch you can buy and brags about pin weight and trailer ratings none of us will ever see. Cody is considered to be the second strongest hitch you can buy.

    If you go to http://www.una-goose.com/ you can see they claim 20,000 (tested to 30K)for the pin rating and 40,000 (tested to 60K) for towing. I don't know what my max pin weight has been but it might exceed 5,000. My Pacbrake air bags are filled to 100 psi empty and when loaded do not exceed the 150 psi max.

    When I'm hauling loads of top dressing my 20' PJ dump trailer is usually around 30-32K but has hit 34K. Even though my pin and towing numbers are well under the hitch rating the hitch has sagged in the middle.

    The owner of Unagoose was supposed to make me a hitch with the braces I designed since their hitch was clearly over rated. After seven months and many phone calls he never made me anything so I finally told him to just to mail me a hitch which he did.

    The steel brackets I designed are 7/16ths steel plate stock. They are likely overkill but you can't be too safe. I only paid $120 to to have them fabricated which is a really good deal. Now I just need to get them painted and switch over the ball locking hardware.

    The Unagoose is probably good for towing 30K and is more then most guys will ever need. I don't like hitches with that require pins to be pulled to rotate flip over balls. Extra moving parts are a bad thing when it come to structural integrity. The Unagoose just has a locking ring that releases the ball so you can install it upside down and out of the wall. The shaft that hold the ball is deeper then all others and it is fully welded in place.

    My trailer has electric over hydraulic disc brakes that I paid $3800 to upgrade. I would not recommend towing over 20K with regular electric brakes. The upgraded brakes are amazing and even at with 30-34K in town it will easily jerk the trailer to a stop. The truck has carbon/Kevlar pads from EGR Performance along with their slotted rotors. These are the best brakes you can buy by far. For the front and back it's about $1500 for the parts but it's worth it.


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  2. Bigred350

    Bigred350 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 811

    Wow that's the most heavy dutiest hitch I've ever seen!!!
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  3. Mark13

    Mark13 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 178

    Have you ever run a B&W? We run those in most trucks and regularly see the weight you are talking and have no problems with them. Quite a bit of use off road as well which is pretty hard on them compared to being on the road with 30k+ being pulled with 7k+ on the pin.
  4. PlantscapeSolutions

    PlantscapeSolutions LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,012

    The B&W is basically two sections of angle iron with a box bolted between them. It's not really a design intended for super heavy loads. My second hitch was this style. B&W really won't even give you a tow rating. They just say don't exceed the OEM numbers.

    Cody and Una-Goose are both better designs and stand behind them with beefy tow ratings. When I tow my 20' dump trailer I have a top dressing machine next to the tailgate. All the load is in the 14' of trailer closer to the truck.

    I don't know how much of that 30-34K load ends up on the pin but it could very well be 8,000 pounds. I have to have airbags at 100 PSI to avoid major sag. I need much more then two sections of angle iron to support the load.
  5. GQLL

    GQLL LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 846

    You say they stand behind them but were they there when yours broke. Yes the sent you a new one but you had to modify it. Evedently your doing something wrong if your bending hitches. We run the b&w and never had a problem with 25k on them. With the 34 you claim your over the tow rating. You must not have alot of dot officers. We would be out of service With that much of a load.
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  6. whiffyspark

    whiffyspark LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,559

    Speaking of dot I wonder if they would be pissed about a modified hitch. Maybe Thats why he couldn't send you one
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  7. PlantscapeSolutions

    PlantscapeSolutions LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,012

    If I didn't have airbags I would be a red flag driving down the road sitting really low in the rear and high in the front. You can't beat Pacbrake airbags. At 100psi at 30K the truck sits normal. At 34K you can the truck sits closer to level.

    My goal is to get my top dressing mix dialed in on the sand/compost mixture and to get the moisture content low enough that I can stay at more like 28-30K or less.

    I also have a Suncoast M3GA Competition transmission with billet input shaft, billet flex plate, and billet triple disc torque converter. A little water/methanol injection is added to give some extra power and help with EGT's.
  8. mow king

    mow king LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 571

    Have you ever considered a single axle semi? You can buy a nice used one for less than a nice used diesel dually pickup.

    It definitely won't be over weight, wont have to modify anything, wont need special brakes, etc etc.
  9. LandFakers

    LandFakers LawnSite Fanatic
    from CT
    Messages: 6,309

    What is the tow vehicle?
  10. PlantscapeSolutions

    PlantscapeSolutions LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,012

    I only tow heavy about 15-20 times a year and the other loads are less then 20K. If I towed this heavy all the time I would ponder a Ram 4500 or 5500 as a dedicated towing vehicle. My power numbers now are about 530 HP and 1000 TQ off the crank put it would be nice to have a heavy duty not medium duty truck with about 50% more power and better gearing.

    The 68RFE really needs to be an eight speed trans with closer gear spacing especially in the lower gears.

    If I had done the electric over hydraulic disc brakes on my trailer first I would not have done the upgraded truck brakes. I really didn't want to dump $3800 into trailer brakes but it was the only safe way to operate the trailer even if it only was grossing 20K.

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