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Hedge bed removal

2869 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Landscaping-newb
I recently purchased a home back in November which sits on a corner lot. The previous owner had planted run of boxwood hedges that cover the entire front perimeter of the yard. I would guess there are probably close to 40-50 total hedges. Due to some neglect and poor maintenance of the previous owner the look of his design is pretty nasty.
So, I am going to be removing every hedge and filling the entire area with grass seed. I am not a landscaping professional and this is my first home. Common sense tells me to remove the hedges, weeds, roots and rocks first and conserving as much soil from the hedges as possible. Second, preparing the existing soil by hand raking, tilling, etc. Throwing a thin layer of new top soil in, adding seed, cover seed with another layer of top soil, rolling the area or atleast making sure it's level, covering with hay, and then watering 3-4 times a day. I also read that I should use a starter fertilizer as well, but I wasnt sure when to apply.
If there are any experienced landscapers in here that could share some wisdom, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks a bunch!
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Well, we got all the hedges pulled yesterday. Final count.....78 of those damn things!!!!! Next step is to get the pulled areas filled and leveled. Anyone have any tips or suggested tools to make sure the soil is compacted enough to where I wont have any settling down the road? So far I was able to spread the remaining top soil to fill the holes but noticed when I walked over a spot it was a little soft. Thanks!
After you have turned the soil, just walk over it when you use your garden rake to grade to compact the soil enough to keep it from settling, but not so much that it is too compacted.

After you use seed, take your leaf rake, turn it upside down and drag it across the seeded area. This is a harrowing effect that will insure good seed to soil contact. If the area is big, then this also helps to cover any foot prints you create when you seed.

Skip the straw as cover. Usually is full of weed seed if you can't find sterilized straw. Just seed and water sufficiently to get it established. Water lightly once in the morning and once at night to keep the soil moist. After it has germinated, cut your watering back accordingly and water in the morning.

Also, buy extra seed and over seed the entire front lawn. This way you wont get a patch of grass that is different in color and structure from the rest of your lawn. You still might need to over seed in the fall in order to blend it all in completely.

Sod is good to use, and can be wayyyyyy better than seeding, but you will get a patch of grass that won't match, so then an over seeding will be necessary to blend it in.
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Would you recommend it? I was planning on using the same seed mix that is in this but didn't know if I would need to change the amount of actual seed I drop if I use the Patchmaster. Any advice or knowledge around this product would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all the help!!!!
I've used it before and you can add seed to it. I never really felt like it had enough seed in it to begin with.

My only problem with the stuff is that it seems to dry out and become paper mache, in that it dries out and becomes hard. Some people like it, some don't, I'm in the middle so that is a judgment call on your part.

Even with the patch master I still feel you have to water it consistently in order to get the seed to germinate. You might minimize your watering, but I feel it's negligible.

I still am a fan of the old-school way. Just seed and water lightly twice a day. Seeing how it's at your home you should have no problems accomplishing this.

I seeded a couple of areas just last week. Yes we have had temperature swings too, but the areas I did are in full sun, so the exposed ground should warm up nicely for germination. Ultimately I had a chance when it was dry to till, so even if it comes up patchy, I can always over-seed during the season as it is a home I maintain Bi-weekly.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
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I'd say you did well. Generally you can't seed too heavily. It might be too heavy if it's a pile. Just take your leaf rake and move it around a little if it is that bad.

I've never heard the 4-6 inches of new top-soil rule before, so that's new to me. I think your common sense is right though as it shouldn't make a difference. Tilling amendments in, whether it be new soil, peat, or compost would have been the better choice, but I don't think you'll have any issues at all.

Rolling was a good idea, and is suggested in my MG manual after tilling to lightly compact the fresh soil. I personally don't care for this method, but it does work. The biggest thing is to not roll an existing lawn.

I think you did well personally, water and wait now. Don't let the grass get too horribly long before you mow it as mowing will help the grass become stronger. Don't spray any chemicals on the new area until you have mowed it 4 times.

The Scott's will do good as long as it didn't have a Crab-Grass preventative in it. I generally stick to a simple strait 13 fertilizer with no other additives for grass establishment.

Good luck! Thumbs Up
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