Help-Lawn Problems

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by sunpro21, Sep 24, 2003.

  1. sunpro21

    sunpro21 LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 7

    I live in NJ. Last year my lawn got killed by the drought. I have been using a lawn service (5 treatments per year) for fertilizing, weed control, etc. They core aerated last fall and it looked great from April-August. I use a mulcher mower. They said I have about 2" of thatch. When I water the lawn, it does not appear to soak in and is always wet.

    Over the past month it has gone downhill. I just had analysis done. They said it has summer patch, brown patch and fairy ring.

    What do you recommend be done now(Sept-Oct)

    I want my green lawn back.

  2. NNJLandman

    NNJLandman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,306

    I suggest having the lawn ripped up and have about 6 inches of the dirt ripped up and put down new topsoil and rot til that so it is nice and rich. Then you can go with the hydroseeding, seeding or sodding option. Were abouts in NJ are you?
  3. LawnJohn

    LawnJohn LawnSite Member
    from Atlanta
    Messages: 147

    What is the grass type?? That would be helful.
  4. Grassmechanic

    Grassmechanic LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,697

    Get rid of the thatch. Power rake, aerate, and overseed with an improved variety grass seed for your area.
  5. Duder

    Duder LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Control of Brown patch:

    Reduce thatch

    avoid mowing late in the day: open, cut leaf-ends become infected during the night

    water early in the morning to minimize leaf wetness - free water must be present for infection to occur

    do not allow turf to become lush from excessive nitrogen applications.

    Control of Summer patch:

    Only control of summer patch is by an application of a systemic fungicide in early spring watered immediately into the upper 1 to 1 1/2" of the soil rootzone - during mid-summer, there is no control because the root system has been severly injured

    Use dilute solutions of fertilizer weekly

    mow at 2" and reduce drought stress

    Fairy ring masking:

    Spike the turf with a garden fork or drill holes to a depth of 10" at 5 - 6 inches apart starting 1 foot outside the furthest extent of the outer green zone and work inwards to include the bare zone. Make up a solution of 1 : 10,000 (0.01%) of a turf wetting agent (Aquatrol, Jetwet, Aquabond, etc.) or, at a pinch, a mild liquid dish detergent (Joy, Lux, Palmolive etc) and water the spiked portion of the ring with this until the spike holes will take no more, Soak the spiked area with a hose or hydrogun daily, for 4- to 8 weeks using plain water. If rings are inadequately treated they may fragment and start new centres of infection. Forks and hydrogun should be sterilized in a 5% solution of domestic hypochlorite bleach before being used on clean areas of lawn, othewise they may spread infection.

    Good luck
  6. Dchall_San_Antonio

    Dchall_San_Antonio LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 327

    There is an organic control for turf fungus diseases. Corn meal, applied any time of year, at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet, will kill fungal diseases at any stage of development within 3 weeks.

    Corn meal works by fighting fungus with fungus. When it is left to lie on the soil, a beneficial fungus in the Trichoderma family grows on corn meal. That fungus has properties that give the turf disease fungi a disease that leads to their swift death.

    If you have already used a chemical fungicide, then the Trichoderma fungus cannot survive and the corn meal treatment will not work.

    The research for this has been done, and is still ongoing, at Texas A&M University at Stephenville.

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