Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Catch up on the conversation about fertilization strategies for success with the experts at Koch Turf & Ornamental in the Fertilizer Application forum .
Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by keith.mcginnis, Oct 29, 2012.
4 Bolts right?
How do I know if the crankcase seals are bad?
It might be nuts. It's been a while since I worked on one.
You need to test it. You'll need Stihl Test flange # 1118 850 4200, Sealing plate 0000 855 8105, Carburetor and crankcase tester
1106 850 2905 and Vacuum pump 0000 850 3500.
Or you could just take it to a dealer and let them do it.
The 4 Torx Head Bolts were snug, I just checked.
Honestly I probably could replace the crank seals cheaper than the dealer could test it. What do you think?
Oil Seal #2
Im still thinking carb. Its possible that the previous owner messed with the H and L screws on the carb to try and get it running, and now they are not in the right place, so the engine wont run. You could try resetting those to the initial setting positions and see if that gets you going. Or there is something else wrong in the carb, maybe under the welch plugs, or something clogging the H or L needle screws. replace that dang thing...id guess its around 45 bucks. Here is some info on carbs that may be helpful: http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/TechGuide_2007.pdf
When I soaked the carb in Seafoam (about 24hrs), both Needles were removed so I doubt there is an blockage there. I already reset the needles to 1 turn from bottom. Now the welch plug was left in the carb. Are those replaceable?
I'm really thinking about replacing the carb, but now I'm wondering about the crank seals. LOL. I don't know man, I just hate throwing parts at things. You know.
I follow what your saying there too man. Its rolling the dice a bit. Try doing a few searches on you tube and you may find something related to your problem also. There is one guy on there I watch a lot of his videos called donyboy73, he has a lot of small engine repair vids. Maybe he has something on those crank seals too.
The welch plugs are removable and a full carb kit includes new ones. That said, Stihl doesn't advise removing the welch plugs unless the carb was in really bad shape, with varnish everywhere.
You can just replace the seals, yes. Don't forget to put a new base gasket in too while you're at it.
I didn't see any varnish at all actually. The carb was very clean. I just noticed the pump looked pretty bad. If you go down to trouble shooting on that Zama carb link the first thing it says under hard/no start is "Engine Air leaks / bolts loose / gaskets damaged"
According to the Stihl Service manual, I only have to pull the flywheel, and starter cup to replace the seals. What is the base gasket?