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Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by keith.mcginnis, Oct 29, 2012.
Between the cylinder and the crankcase. Part # 4203 029 2300
It also looks like you'll need gasket #4203 029 0500
You do know those seals install from the inside right? You have to disassemble the engine to get at them.
Here's a breakdown from my Stihl manual. You'll notice the seals are inside of the crankcase covers. The seals are parts numbers 8 & 9.
So are you saying #22, #8,9,&10?
Richard see my attachement. I do see what you are saying, but this manual makes it sound so easy.
Mine says the same thing. Go with it.
Hey man thanks for all of your help!
Btw, nice choice of Browser
It's the Windows 8 version. Win 8 is kinda strange. The browsers have 2 completely different looks and work differently depending on whether you're using the Start Menu interface or the Desktop interface. Both IE and Chrome do it.
You can check the seals without all the special stihl parts. You gotta block off the exh. port by sandwiching a piece of innertube and tin can lid cut to fit between the studs, using the muffler to clamp it. Rubber side to cyl. Do the same for carb., or use the gask. for a template. It sounds involved, but you can cut the tin with scissors, or you can even use something like an old credit card for backing.
Then pressurize with a leakdown tester in plug hole and check for leakage.
No leakdown tester? Just use an easy touch on a rubber tipped blow gun.
Ideally, ya wanna check with a vacuum source also ( any of yer buds got a mighty -vac ) but if ya ain't got one......
If you decide to replace the seals, be very carefull that ya don't booger up the shaft/s, and check for radial play as well as end-play.
And the seals absolutely are replaced from the outside.
Thanks for all of that info. What a clever way to test for leaks.. Know any tricks for removing the seals without the special tool. Someone said screw a screw into the seal and pull it out.