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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used GX1320 and the first year is ran great. Last fall it started to die once it got warm, say after 15 minutes. Once it cooled off, a couple hours or overnight, it would start up again until it got warm. I mowed once more last fall and managed to finish but it was really cold out.
Now I can't get the thing to start and there isn't't any spark. I took the spark plug out and cleaned it and gapped it. I took the cover off and removed all the rust off the thing that is mounted next to the flywheel. I have cleaned all the connections on the modules in the upper box where the ignition is.
I replaced the blade engagement module last year, the button had broken off.
Seems like it is the ignition or some safety but I can't find anything on the mower on line.
It would be great to only replace the bad part rather than all the electronics.
Thanks for your help!
 

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Sounds to me like your choke could be stuck.

On another note, please don't pull some however old spark plug just to put it back in...
I suggest if you pull it, replace it.

But the first thing I would do is see if that choke is sticking.
If that's not it, then it probably is the coil.

It would be great to only replace the bad part rather than all the electronics.
Yes it would, do you have an Ohm meter?
There exists a process by which one can test a coil's continuity and resistances that, depending on the
results of the metered tests will tell you the likelihood of it being bad ...
Which, by the time I'm done playing around with that, I'm as well off replacing the dang thing.

Then if it's not the coil, I have a spare.
Because I do know the easiest way to test for a bad part, is put a known to be working one in.

Don't forget to gap it proper.
 

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How did you clean the rust off the thing next to the Flywheel (Magneto) and did you clean the rust off the Magnet that is on the Flywheel? Did you take the magneto off to clean the rust? If so, Did you reset the air gap when you replaced it?

I'm not sure how the Operator Presence system works on that machine. Do the safety switches control the Starting Circuit or the Ignition Circuit, I don't know. But if they control the Ignition circuit, all the switches have to be activated in order to achieve spark.

I think you will be hard pressed to find a manual on line. John Deere is very stingy about sharing technical information. They want you to go to the Dealer, or maybe Sell you the service manual. Hope you get lucky, and find something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't regap it, there didn't seem to be any way to change the gap as the bolts went into holes, not slots.
It seems like the problem is no spark, not the choke, it would run just fine until it all of a sudden stopped running, like there was a kill switch activated.
I would guess it is the safety system is the problem, I just don't know where the safety system for the "being in gear" is and it is too big to easily turn over and see how it all works, if I had a manual then it should show me where it is located.
Thanks for the help so far.
 

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If you disconnect the kill wire from ignition module you eliminate all the safeties and can test for spark. If you do this while the plug in still installed and the engine starts the you will have to pull the plug wire off the spark plug to shut it off so it would be best to remove plug and ground it to metal to check spark. Unless you have a spark tester..... If you have spark then you will need to start checking all safeties and relays.
 

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I have a 1998 John Deere GX1320 with the 14HP Kawasaki. My machine has the same problem, no spark. The guy who I acquired it from was the original owner, and it only has 366 hours on the clock. I will need to perform the same test.
 

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I have a 1998 John Deere GX1320 with the 14HP Kawasaki. My machine has the same problem, no spark. The guy who I acquired it from was the original owner, and it only has 366 hours on the clock. I will need to perform the same test.
Your ignition module has gone bad. I have the same engine in My lx 172 and whenever it has lost spark that had been the problem. The OP's problem should be the same thing.
 

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Yeah if it has igniter 90% of these will go bad before the coil.
You bet. My dealer has never seen a coil go bad on these 14hp Kawasaki's, ever. 9.989 times out of 10 it is the igniter or a fouled plug.

The only reason I replaced the coil on mine last time is because I some how managed to pull out the spark plug wire and brake the wire inside it off at the coil (it was about to fall of the garbage can I had left it sitting on and when I grabbed for it I caught hold of the wire and it pulled out on me $75 mistake and the ignition module was another $72 on top of that).
 

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Thanks guys! So where can I pick up a new ignition module? I'm just going to replace that and plan on tuning the machine up.

Pete
 

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Is the Ignition Module & Ignitor one in the same? There is a box located on the body of the machine that looks like an ignition module, but I'm not certain. I do have a service manual to this John Deere, but I'm at work now so I cannot look it up. Can someone take a picture of the module?
 

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Thank you for the link, but for some reason, it's coming up with a lawn tractor.

I typed in GX1320 as the model number but no results were found.
 

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The engine that's on yours should be the same one that is in my Lx172. The old Lx170 series ended production in 1997 so I'm guessing they just used the same 14hp engine rather than having Kawasaki re-tool for a new one. When you go to your dealer don't forget to bring your engine numbers with you.
 

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I just ordered the igniter, spark plug, air filter, fuel filter, new set of tires and oil filter from Jacks Small Engines. Hopefully my items will be in next week sometime.

Thank you for your help!
 

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I just installed the igniter and STILL no spark. I'm going to purchase myself a multimeter and test the other components. I'm not sure if the coil is bad on this unit as it only has 366 hours, but who know. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
 
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