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Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by POPO4995, Mar 30, 2013.
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Since you have clumps of grass...do not till because then you have clumps of grass to remove. I suggest use a sod cutter to strip off the old residue. Then a light rake or light till followed by seed. Or install sod--its quick--and you can usually get paid before the extreme dryness sets in.
If its hot there, use tall fescue, not rye. Don't let your hydroseeder use more than 20 percent rye, its aggressive--if more than 20 percent--the results will be 99 percent rye, bluegrass will be almost invisible.
This is a good spot for irrigation--or--at least a temporary set-up, timer, splitter, and 4 hoses. Deposit refunded, when returned to you
Abiotic mean not fungus or insect--so basically they are saying we could not determine the cause.
Do a soil test
I thought about tilling due to the unknown, tilling in some compost but it really does have a good grade. I went and looked again and thinking the sod cutter and then laying sod might be the best option as long as they water, and I think they will. They are to the point now they said whatever it costs, we dont care, we just want a yard.
The abiotic disorder is still troublesome,,, as though they are trying to say unknown contaminant, but the Uni should be all over contaminants...
Before you go ahead and spend the clients money on sod and wasted labor, I would check out the soil myself... what is the texture and tilth of the soil??? how does it handle water???
If the Uni can't give you necessary information then have an experienced gardener, or better yet a farmer,, take a look at a scoop full of dirt that is representative of the top 6"...
If most of the dead lawn mass will rake away, you can probably just put down a coat of compost and lay sod over that, without cutting away the top layer... If the soil is any good at all, the compost and the old rotted dead grass from last year will be healthy bed for sod...
Why would they be?
And that will lead to what?
For what reason?
This is a beyond bad suggestion.
Smallaxe if you cant get grass to grow with out a sprinkler system then You are not very good Landscaper
The people that hydro seed that lawn you talking about might not prep the lawn for the hydro seed to start with.
I always have 4-6''of depth for a seed bed before I straw or hydroseed or sod lawns
I hydro seed a lawn last summer with out a sprinkler and it did ok looks really nice this spring nice and thick all turf fescue
Where I live maybe 5% of all the lawns in my town has a Sprinkler system rest is non.
I have never had a problem growing grass and have a healthy lawns.
Non Sprinkler lawns Grass roots goes deep.
In a Sprinkler lawn roots never goes down they stay close to the surface
A lawn that has a sprinkler system cant live with out it period.
I can get grass to grow without irrigation... in fact most of what I'd done involved no irrigation... my comment had to do with neglect during a drought... the idea of putting down sod for someone who will neglect it it(as in Riggle's exa.) is definately going to be a waste of money in the Spring of the year...
I would not be involved in putting down sod onto large areas and expected that the customer is going to treat it right with hoses...
Look at the CONTEXT of the conversation and notice the comments were directed at sod and h.o.s that didn't care for the turf,,, hence the use of Riggle's exa...)
I never use straw anymore becuz it ends up with lots of barespots... it is useful on hills to prevent current from forming, but a well conditioned seed bed, correctly soaked and maintained with proper moisture/air ratio...
Notice the change in CONTEXT between sod and seedbeds??? when telling me I'm a poor landscaper it is SMART to be able to make your claims make sense...
In a lawn where the irrigation is incorrectly managed, the roots will generally be close to the surface.
Assuming you live in a region that requires supplemental water inputs to keep turf alive.