I posted this in the Landscape section thinking I would get some expert advice but only got 1 reply...That was from kutnkru...Maybe you guys can help me out a little better..Here's the problem: I had a large apartment complex call wanting an estimate to correct an erosion problem.They have two steep hills that is just almost completely dirt-no grass..One of the hill is an easy fix - some timbers and mulch and a few plantings..The other hill is a much larger arrea and has several full grown trees on it..The problem is that the hill is about 35degrees slope and is very irregular..Timbers and other barriers wouldn't really work..The area is in a triangular shape and I was thinking about outlining the area in nandinas and also make several cross sections with the nandinas and then placing junipers and ground cover within the perimeter, then and a layer of mulch..Would this look good???Does anybody have any other suggestions??I would also have to re-bury the drainage pipes from two gutters..What would be a good price to charge for this job...??Probably will take about 150 nandinas, 16 timbers, 75 junipers, and 100 2" ground cover containers..This is about a 3 day job with 2 man crew...Thanks for the help..Clean-Cut
Hillside erosion problem>>!!!
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If you need any additional info you can e-mail me:
[email protected]
kris
[Edited by kutnkru on 01-21-2001 at 11:22 PM]
[email protected]
kris
[Edited by kutnkru on 01-21-2001 at 11:22 PM]
Thanks again for the advice Kris...The way that I worded it sounds like your advice wasn't good, that's not what I meant..Your advice really helps and I was trying to make the point that you were the only one nice enough to reply..I thought this forum was to get help but it seems like when u have a serious question, nobody wants to answer but when u post a thread about dog poop or something along that line that everybody responds...Don't get me wrong, I respond to those threads to but I think we need to help each other out when we post serious questions..Thanks for the replies in advance...Clean-Cut
Cleancut
I cannot speak for all, but I myself do not look at the Landscape forum too often. Also, so many of us know alot more about dog poop than landscaping since I think most of us are more heavy on just maintaining and not installing.
As for your question, I am not that familier with nandinas, but it sounds like your plan has good common sense by trying to get some vegitation on that slope to hold it in. It sounds like it would look good. I am wondering as to what ground cover you are planting and do you think it will over take the junipers. You did not mention the size of these hills, but 75 junipers and only 100 ground cover seems strange too me, but I cannot see the plan layout so it is likely fine.
Price wise, this would be a big job for me. I have done several over the years, but I only do those current accounts that approach me, I try to avoid them. Way I would price on this job would be to add 50% to price of plants, smaller jobs of one or two plants, I double price of plants. I would add 15% markup on timbers and fabrics and any other materials like timber spikes, etc... Mulch, I think I would charge about $75 a yard installed + $50 for each load you most deliver. Total install labor, timbers, planting, grading, etc. I would charge the amount your hourly crew gets in an hour + $60 of your hourly wage x your total hourly estimate for the work at hand + 20% if you have a history of under estimating times, do not forget to estimate time for picking up materials, etc.. maybe at a slightley lower rate of crew wages plus maybe $35 an hour for yourself. Then I would add about $500 - $1,000 dollars as a pure profit margin, depending on the customer, ending bid price(if looks too low maybe)cover hidden cost such as a fourth day at just an hour or two to finish up, covers your planning, running, waiting while shopping, etc..
This is how I would go about a price. Hope this helps some.
I cannot speak for all, but I myself do not look at the Landscape forum too often. Also, so many of us know alot more about dog poop than landscaping since I think most of us are more heavy on just maintaining and not installing.
As for your question, I am not that familier with nandinas, but it sounds like your plan has good common sense by trying to get some vegitation on that slope to hold it in. It sounds like it would look good. I am wondering as to what ground cover you are planting and do you think it will over take the junipers. You did not mention the size of these hills, but 75 junipers and only 100 ground cover seems strange too me, but I cannot see the plan layout so it is likely fine.
Price wise, this would be a big job for me. I have done several over the years, but I only do those current accounts that approach me, I try to avoid them. Way I would price on this job would be to add 50% to price of plants, smaller jobs of one or two plants, I double price of plants. I would add 15% markup on timbers and fabrics and any other materials like timber spikes, etc... Mulch, I think I would charge about $75 a yard installed + $50 for each load you most deliver. Total install labor, timbers, planting, grading, etc. I would charge the amount your hourly crew gets in an hour + $60 of your hourly wage x your total hourly estimate for the work at hand + 20% if you have a history of under estimating times, do not forget to estimate time for picking up materials, etc.. maybe at a slightley lower rate of crew wages plus maybe $35 an hour for yourself. Then I would add about $500 - $1,000 dollars as a pure profit margin, depending on the customer, ending bid price(if looks too low maybe)cover hidden cost such as a fourth day at just an hour or two to finish up, covers your planning, running, waiting while shopping, etc..
This is how I would go about a price. Hope this helps some.
Could the job be hydroseeded?
I do hydroseeding and I know price wise it would be cheaper and faster to hydroseed it. Again, I have not seenthe site it may have too many trees on it or be too shady.
?
There are alot of plants that can be seeded that would do well in shade. Hydroseeding usually runs between .045 cents per square foot to .06 cents. No higher than .10
I do hydroseeding and I know price wise it would be cheaper and faster to hydroseed it. Again, I have not seenthe site it may have too many trees on it or be too shady.
?
There are alot of plants that can be seeded that would do well in shade. Hydroseeding usually runs between .045 cents per square foot to .06 cents. No higher than .10
What is the drainage like on this site? Here in Wa. we have mudslides during heavy weather, your drainage will be key as to your control. ex. If during heavy rains a spring is flowing from your hill,etc. Or is this just a site where it is so sloped that "normal" generic plantings don't do well? Are you looking @ a hold the hill thing or just a hold the plantings thing? If you have site plans, or grafic info you can upload them to my idrive acct. http://www.idrive.com visit powerreel and throw them in my dropbox.
Hey everybody thanks for the replies and advice..I think I'm going to go a different route though..Here's my new idea::redo the drainage pipes and put down erosion control blankets..I think this will be the least labor intensive and cost efficient way to go..The blankets should work great on the irregular, rough terrain..I just have to find someplace to buy them...What do u guys think???Clean-
Cut
Cut
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how about putting it a stone retaining wall, instead of timbers. My experience has shown that over time timbers dont last and look bad real quick, but im im New England, so weather plays a factor too. I would go with a wall at the botom, and try to bring it away from the hill and fill in behind it to ease the steep slope, the put some kind of a low ground cover like English Ivy or vinca and let it grow over the wall. All the $ is in installation, so if you do some nice looking jobs, word of mouth will take over, and hopefully you can do better. But like the other reply, I havent seen this area either, so take that for what its worth.
I don't mean to be negative at all here. I personally would leave it alone if you haven't had experience in erosion control or hillside work before. You will forever be resposible if the work goes south (no pun intended)! What happens when your putting the finishing touches on your project and the bottom falls out, there it goes down the hill. Now your 3 days turns into another day and 1/2 re-working what you just finished, at your cost of course cause you already gave the price.
Good luck if you tackle the project but I would sure get some money up frt-----------and again, your working with an apt. complex, they want it done for nothing but expect everything.
If I did it I would sod it and be done, or like suggested, hydroseeding would be the cheapest route. It would be easier to mow than pull all those weeds that are surely coming.
Good luck if you tackle the project but I would sure get some money up frt-----------and again, your working with an apt. complex, they want it done for nothing but expect everything.
If I did it I would sod it and be done, or like suggested, hydroseeding would be the cheapest route. It would be easier to mow than pull all those weeds that are surely coming.
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Hill that will be mowed = SOD
Hill with little maintenance = Junipers or other ground cover
Hill with continual problems = Pine Bark
Hill with less problems than bark = Pine needles or rock
Without seeing, I would guess I would do Junipers and fill with pineneedles.
Ray
Hill with little maintenance = Junipers or other ground cover
Hill with continual problems = Pine Bark
Hill with less problems than bark = Pine needles or rock
Without seeing, I would guess I would do Junipers and fill with pineneedles.
Ray
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