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how does my program look...

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by grassmasterswilson, Nov 8, 2010.

  1. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Messages: 4,917

    Going to post my program in order to get some feedback. What do you guys thin?


    Round 1 – prodiamine/coolpower/22-8-6 fert
    Round 2 – prodiamine/coolpower
    Round 3 – Triplet/horsepower/other 3-way
    Round 4 – quincept/prosedge – blanket app or spot treat due to weather
    Round 5 – quincept/prosedge/sol u cal lime --likely spot treat due to temps
    -late sept/early oct Seed/Aerate/18-24-12/
    Round 6 – l24-2-8/coolpower


    Round 1 – atrazine/coolpower
    Round 2 – prodiamine/coolpower
    Round 3 – 25-0-5 /3way or horse power
    Round 4 – 25-0-5 4 lbs/quincept/optional aeration
    Round 5 – 15-0-15/quincept/prosege
    Round 6 -solucal lime/simazine


    Round 1 – atrazine/coolpower or speed zone southern
    Round 2 – prodiamine/ speed zone southern
    Round 3 – 4-0-6 sol u cal
    Round 4 – 8-0-24 4 lbs/triplet sensitive/prosedge/optional aeration
    Round 5 – 8-0-24 3 lbs/triplet sensitive/prosedge/sethoxydim
    Round 6 – sol u cal sulfur 8 lbs.
  2. JD2320

    JD2320 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 132

    I have no experience with warm season grasses but is three rounds of fert enough? And some don't get fert till summer?

    Is the PH in the soil down there that screwed up that you need to raise it or lower it?

    Have you ever tested to see if you can even lower PH by adding sulfur? You should just over compansate with a high balanced fert in my opinion.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  3. JD2320

    JD2320 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 132

    I just looked and it says that Centipede thrives on a PH of 5 to 6, and Bermuda and fescue likes 6 to 8.

    I can see why you might want to have a lower PH for Bermuda, but whats the average PH of your areas soils? If it's too high for Bermuda it is probably perfect for Centipede and Fescue which means you wouldn't need lime on the Centipede and trying to lower PH in soil is nearly impossible.
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,543

    Michigan guys can give you the best advice, LOL.
    I suggest Horsepower, at least on the fescue (not so sure about the Bermuda and centipede). Horsepower is better and not much odor.
    Do you really need the expense of the Quincept, and all that Prosedge? Do you mean blanket or spot spray? Can you devise a back pack that can spray for nutsedge with the left hand and crabgrass spot spray with the right?
  5. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Messages: 4,917

    I have tested the pH in many of my lawns and it really varies. If you have a lawn that has been maintained then the test may not call for any lime. I have had a few bermuda lawns that I picked up from trugreen and the test called for 100 lbs of lime per 1000!!!

    All my lime or sulfur applications are to maintain the pH. If I test reveals that i really need to drop it down .5 or even 1 then I charge for an additional app.

    Riggle - all my prosege is in a backpack to reduce cost since many times the nutsedge is in patches down here.

    JD - I don't fertilize warm season grasses until they are fully green. There is always a chance of a late frost in the spring or cold air moving in late in the year. Our warm season grasses only grow and are green about 6 or 7 months out of the year. Plus if you don't have irrigation or even if you do our fescue usually burns up in the summer...just can't take 70 or 80 days over 90 degrees and little rain.(this year we had close to 90 days over 90 degrees!)
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  6. JD2320

    JD2320 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 132

    No offense but to me Lime and or sulfur applications are snake oil for the most part. Especially sulfur applications and 100lbs per K are not uncommon when really trying to raise the PH.

    What doesn't make sense to me is that if one soil needs Lime, why does the next lawn need sulfur.

    If you're that low on PH for Bermuda and feel the need to apply lime, the PH would be perfect for centipede then since centipede likes an acidic soil, no?

    And why two apps of barricade? Stuff has a four month residual at least.
  7. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Messages: 4,917

    I understand what you are saying. Our soils are generally right in the middle of the pH scale. So many time you need to add lime to fescue and bermuda and sulfur to centipede. Doing this also make the absorption of nutrients easier with less leaching.

    barricade is a split app.
  8. JD2320

    JD2320 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 132

    Whats a split app?
  9. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Messages: 4,917

    a do a split app of half now and half in round 2. it give a little longer control down here. works perfect cause the timing of pre is round 1 and 2 for me.
  10. BenTolerLandscaping

    BenTolerLandscaping LawnSite Member
    Messages: 6

    I have had ALOT of success with stonewall (u may be using it already?) which has your active ingredient for all turf varieties in pre emerg. apps.....and going heavy with the N side of the ball early in the year, especially with the second app on fescue....with the warm grasses its just K only on the analysis for the apps in pre emrgnt.... three way has also worked well for me aswell, along with tripplet(fescue).......and in all of these grasses the southern speed zone imo cannot be beat....i use it religiously, while judiciously at same time....with your warm seasons in mind , consider a granular summer apps with iron in them!...have had outstanding results with that....*muda/zoysia*....deep green all summer! ...its all about the little things that seperate 1st and 2nd place

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