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when I arrive at a new job? (I am not a commercial mower just curious how this is done). When you arrive on-site and evaluated a job (Lawn) how do you lay it out. I mean in order to maximize your time and minimize your turns but still give the yard that curb appeal? After all a lawn that stands out is going to get business. I'm interested in knowing what determines which direction you mow, where you start, finishing touches and those little things that you think make you better that your competitors. Come on with those trade secrets.:)

Lawns look better (at least to me) if viewing from the road mowed from front to back or a diagonal of this pattern as opposed to side to side? Stripes more visible. If possible is this high on the list to accomplish? Do you start in the middle and work to the sides if possible? How do you make sure you are cutting straight and not in a slight diagonal making you finish with unmowed section at one end on the side and the other end on the other side? That probably doesn't make a bit of sense to anyone but me!!!:confused:


Thanks in advance, Beckham
 

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You'll get several answers to your questions because there are so many variables that come into play. ie: slopes, obstacles, trees, shrubs, ditches, type of grass, mulching, bagging, or side discharge, etc. Most importantly its customer expectations. Most LCO's will agree that alternating patterns will prevent rutting. Some customers really don't care what pattern is used as long as it looks neat. Stripes are nice and works better in some areas and not others. To keep a straight line simply keep your focus on an object that is on the opposite side of the yard as you mow towards that object. When I'm doing diagonal cuts, I mow the perimeter of the yard twice the width of the mower, then I start at one corner and keep my focus on the opposite corner and mow towards that, thus cutting the yard in half and using the previously mowed perimeters as my turn-around areas. Next time I cut it, I will cut it at opposite diagonals.
 

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It all depends on the yard, and what angles it can/will be viewed from, what landscape/hardscape is on the property, time involved, and which alternate patterns will be complimentary.

The natural thing is to want to run the easiest/fastest pattern (length of longest area), but you also have to consider what your alternating patterns are going to be. Most of our lawns run a NE-SW, SE-NW, and depending on the view points of the property either a N-S or E-W, but then some have more intricate patterns that involve curves, wave, or even circles.

Like mississippiturf said there are literally unlimited variable that will define what will work for the property.
 

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all of the above is true. Also it depends if the property your mowing is multi acres, residential or commercial. I have several multi acre properties along with some residentials that I cut. I mow the multi acre properties differently then I do the residentials. I go around the perimeter of the yard once or twice with the Z to get some distance away from the fence, then I go up and down. I also will go down the center of the property dividing it in half, and work on one half at a time. When one half is done, I take a short break, and finish the 2nd half. Generally you do want to alter your mowing patter either back and forth one time and up and down the next time to reduce rutting the yard. Hope this helps.
 

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I almost always cut on a diagonal. my customers have commented on the appearance and love it. I also will do 2 header strips along the perimeter. then the next week i intersect the first pattern at a 90 degree angle usually. after a while i can see both patterns and cut the pattern that is less defined ..thus alernating each time.
 

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I like the way a diagonal looks in the yard. I try to alternate directions to get the checkerboard look. Of course on some where the money is not that great, I do side to side or up and down. In my opinion, I like the diagonal best.
 

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I also try to take into consideration where most of the sunlight is coming from, stripes are much more visible when you look at the yard with the sunlight... if that makes any sense.
 

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I always use the four way pattern. N-S, W-E, then diagonal left, followed by diagonal right. It works out that the patterns are only repeated 11 times a year as we cut about 44 weeks a year hear. I have never had a rutting problem, but I have used this technique on new properties where the previous LCO never changed the pattern. Boy did I have scalping issues on these new lawns. But then I sell remediation work to fix the ruts. Hope this helps.:usflag:
 

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i always do one to 2 passes oround the perimeter. i usually do diagonala one week and strait lines the next. I have 2 accounts with hills so steep i can only mow side to side so i dont change the pattern on those
 
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