how long to wait after seeding to fertlize

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by BillyRgn, Jun 29, 2008.

  1. BillyRgn

    BillyRgn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 248

    on a new lawn area, which was seeded with straight fertilizer mixed in, how long should you wait to apply more fertilizer,and how long would you wait to put weed and feed down. also, how do you make a newly seeded area get that darker green color. this is my house, so please don't knock me and say i should be licensed, because i don't usually do this. i put new top soil down, mixed straight fertilizer in, put seed down and covered it with straw, it is coming up beautiful, real thick, looks excellent. but it is just more of like a lime green color, rather than that darker green like the rest of the lawn. it is not burning out, its being watered regularly but not over watered, does it get darker with time, or do i need to apply something else ??? thanks guys Billy
  2. PerfectEarth

    PerfectEarth LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,734

    What formula did you mix in? You should put down an 18-24-12 (starter fert)
  3. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,476


    Depending on the type & percent & rate of slow release N you might have been due 2 weeks after installation.

    It is common today to see all chemcical starters. Likewise there is plenty of "25% SCU" starter that might as well be all mineral.

    If it's been 2 weeks or more, I would hit it again. But use a quality slow N this time.
  4. JNyz

    JNyz LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,087

    Hold off on the weed control until you are sure all the seed has germinated.
  5. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Messages: 6,163

    Depending on the analysis you put down at seeding...I would make the same rec as above. Go in with 18-34-12 (50% SCU) 2-3 weeks after seeding and then once you have mowed it 1 or 2 times hit it with something like a 30-010 (50% SCU) and you can then do weed control. Don't do any weed control until you have mowed several times or you may take out the young seedlings!
  6. mrkosar

    mrkosar LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 680

    what rcreech said. the new grass will darken and thicken up with time. what type of seed was it? many times it comes in a little lighter colored green, but it will be fine.
  7. lilmarvin4064

    lilmarvin4064 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 757

    soil test

    In many areas near me, low in phosphorus, you will need a second app of 18-24-12. The 50% SCU, MOP/SOP version is very nice. However I prefer 12-24-14 or 14-24-14 MAP, SOP (smaller prills, and less expensive). Apply 1 to 1.5#P/1000 sq ft. Then I usually follow up in 4 weeks with a 20-10-10 or 25-15-10 50%SCU.

    You picked a bad time of year to put seed down...

    If you were in my neck of the woods, you'd better be using some fungicide and biostimulant if you want that new grass to survive.
  8. JNyz

    JNyz LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,087

    He is in conn. so he can get away with it more then most of us.
  9. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,808

    What kind of seed did you use. I know it is too late--but--the highest quality seed is very dark green because it has genetic green color. It is common for new lawns to have light green color. Creech is right--more fert in the first year will be a big help. When the soil has been built up in fertility--it will be greener and hold the color better.
  10. weircc

    weircc LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    not trying to jack this thread but im having saving problem i used a 5way fescue turf builder with some starter fert and stopped growing i mowed one time didnt really need hole yard mowed but did anyway what fert should i use 18/24/12 or the 18/34/12 both was mentioned

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