How soon is too soon

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by 12Valve, Feb 25, 2009.

  1. 12Valve

    12Valve LawnSite Member
    from NC
    Messages: 115

    Got a lady wanding me to kill everthing in the yard and aerate and over seed along with starter fert. Lots of clover, crab/wire grass and wild oninons. Will roundup kill clover, onions, and dormit/dead crab grass this time of year? Its supposed to be 65deg tommorow however its only about 45today.

    I know it works better when it hotter in the midday. Should I wait a few weeks or can I begin spraying now?

    Im wanting to spay pretty soon followed by annother application 7-10days latter then hope to have seen on the ground end of march.
  2. turf hokie

    turf hokie LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,751

    oh boy, here we go again.
  3. dKoester

    dKoester LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,328

    Do you have your NC pesticide licsense? Whats that?
  4. 12Valve

    12Valve LawnSite Member
    from NC
    Messages: 115

    takin march 2nd, yes im new but I got to start someplace
  5. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 288

    If their actively growing then do so. If not then I would wait till they are actively growing. If your still getting night time temps below freeze must cases its still a little to early. If you were to apply it now and its not growing it would be useless. The plant can't translocate the chemical throughout the plant since its dormant. The crabgrass control go by the forsythia, when that blooms apply your pre emerge. If you can aquire confront a.i. triclopyr do it. It smokes clover, and other broadleafs.
  6. Think Green

    Think Green LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,746

    Glyphosate is a nonselective systemic herbicide that was originally designed as a growth regulating herbicide. At lower applications, it is considered a chemical pruning herbicide, and at higher applications, it is a total kill herbicide. The unique thing about Round-up is it does not have any soil residual action. IT IS A CONTACT KILLER ONLY!
    So just about anything that has green foliage on it will suffer and die after application.
    Dormant turf will be unaffected unless it is KBG--Fescue--etc.

    Enough of my babbling...........Tombo is on the path of giving some great advice.!
  7. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 288

    If the lawn is more then 50% weeds then i would roundup it when things start to grow. If its less then 50% i would use a selective herbicide so you can atleast save some desirable grass, unless she has a preference of one grass over the other. fyi, clover is a good indicator of low nitrogen levels as is if you get dollar spot.
  8. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Messages: 6,162

    If you are going to "kill everything"...why would you do a core/seeding?

    This would call for a renovation or slice seeding! Core/seeding can even suck on a decent lawn!

    Your plan is NOT GOOD!

    Sorry, but you need to tell her to hire a you have shown with this post that you are probably not the best man for the job!

  9. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 288

    If I was doing this job this is how I would approach it. This is assuming she wants to kill everything. I would first take a soil test to see what nutrients are lacking and what my pH is because you may need to apply lime. If you have sufficient phosphorus in your soil test then their is no need to apply a starter fert, since the phosphorus is in the soil, it may not be available right away do to the pH, but that will determine if you need lime or not.The lime will bring the pH up and make the nutrients that were unavailable in the soil, avaivlable for the plant to uptake. In terms of lime I would do it in the late winter to spring timeframe. I would then get roundup and kill everything in the yard. Next purchase a verticutter or mattaway that slices into the yard. Make one pass horizontal then one pass vertical so you cross each other. Then I would rake all the dead and cut up grass and get rid of that. Next, get the desirable seed and spread that out with broadcast spreader, then maybe roll it once to get good seed to soil contact. Finally throw some fine mulch on top of it or penn mulch to cover the seed, this will also keep the moisture in and heat it to encourage germination. After 2 or 3 mowings I would throw down a pre emerge whenever you see forsythia come to bloom, if that has already happened and your getting some emerging crabgrass go with post emerge. If the forsythia has bloomed and no crabgrass has come up then throw pre emerge as soon as possible. Then come back and use a selctive herbicide to get rid of the weeds that are actively growing.

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