How to drain hydro, transmission, and PTO oil in Walker

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by craws01, Apr 19, 2004.

  1. craws01

    craws01 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Hi all,
    I recently purchased a used Walker and want to perform all of the recommended maintenance on it, but I don't have any of the manuals. I have ordered them, but in the meantime, I really need to get this machine out in the field. I searched the forums for an answer to this question, but although I found similar questions, none of them actually answered how to drain the hydro oil, transmission oil, and PTO oil. I have looked for drain plugs, but have been unable to find any.

    Thank you,
    Trim Turf Lawn Care, LLC
    Marietta, GA
  2. craws01

    craws01 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    I found the answer to my questions in another post by modifying my search criteria. Thank you.
  3. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,098

    I work in a Walker Dealership. I do that on a regular bases. First thing there is no transmission as you know it. The drain plugs for the Hydro pumps is on the bottom. It is a 11/16 bolt looking thing. You must use Mobil One oil in the pumps. After you drain the pumps you will need to remove the cups on top of the pumps. Be real careful not to get any dirt in the pumps when you do so. You remove the cups bey unscrewing them from the pump. WARNING= the cups have left hand threads. At my shop we wash the cup assemblies is warm soapy water and let dry. When you refill the pumps do it with the cups off. After the pump are full replace the cups. DO NOT fill the cups up. If you look there is a fill line just a quarter inch from the bottom. This cup is really just an expansion tank. Now for the drive motors>the big cast iron thing the wheels are bolted to. That takes 90W gear oil and should be checked every 100 hours of use. There is a drain plug on some but we have never drain them. There is a fill plug just forward of the wheel. The plug is made for a 1/4" Allen wrench to remove it but when putting it back I always replace it with pipe plug. The Allen's have a bad habit of being too hard to get out as you may find out the hard way. The is an air bleed that if you open it it will make filling the drive motor a lot easier. The air bleed is on top of the drive motor. The one on the blower side is easy to see but the one on the right side is hidden under the circuit breaker. Now a Walker has more grease fittings than you want to thank about. It can take a full tube is it has not been greased lately. The PTO gear box needs checked as well, it takes 90W gear oil. The gear boxes on the deck need to be checked also>90W. Blade=Do not use a impact gun to put blades on with, Off-OK, On-NO. The blades must be set at 60 foot/pounds or the shear bolts will not do there job and you could be looking at rebuilding a deck. There is a good deal to these machines, more than I can tell you at one time. If you ask me a question on something I will try to answer it.
  4. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 121

    Nice coverage fixer67!

    craws01: what year is your Walker and how many hours are on it?

    If I may add some info from my personal experience...
    (I've been working/mowing, mowing/working :D with Walkers for over 10 years. I buy used machines at the end of the season and rebuild them over the winter months. we average 200 hrs a season on each mower.)
    With these kind of hours we found it to be Cheap Insurance to change the oil in your Hydros AND Final Drives EVERY YEAR!
    ... at $400.00 per Hydro and $900.00 per Final Drive (6+ years ago market value)... Hate to see them NOW! :eek:

    On the Hydro's... Use ONLY Mobil 1, 15W50 synthetic oil in them.

    On the Final Drives... If your machine is pre 2002, They now make a "Magnetic" plug for the drive casings to help collect metal shavings AWAY from the gears. I put one in the top AND bottom of ALL my Final Drives. You will be amazed at the amount of wear that goes on inside them!!!

    On Greasing the fittings... Use a "miners grease", they are more water resistant and will last much longer than normal grease. The grease i use is made by Shell.

    Congrats & Good Luck on your new purchase,
  5. craws01

    craws01 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Thanks for the info guys. The Walker is a 96 model. It has almost 1600 hours on the clock. I bought it for $1,000. It had not been started for over a year, but with some work, it now runs very well. Seems to burn a little oil, but does not push any smoke. I am going to run it as is for this season maybe either replace the engine or buy a new one in the fall. Thanks again for the help.
  6. Mack77

    Mack77 LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 212

    I'm changing all fluids on my Walker right now, and am currently trying to change the hydro oil. You said the cups have LEFT handed threads. Forgive me for this perhaps stupid question but which way would you turn this to get it off? If it is a 'left handed thread' does it follow the "Righty Tighty, Lefty Lucy" saying?

    I have not heard that 'left handed' term before, and I do not want to break anything and get pieces of a broken cup in the hydro unit. Figured i'd ask before I did anything!

  7. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 121

    Hey Mack77,
    Left Handed=Opposite Direction
    Lefty Tighty, Righty Loosy
    The oil Fixer is talking about for the Hydros is Mobil One 15W-50 tri-synthetic

    Not a hard job to do at all... I just heard from a friend who DOESN"T change hydro oil in his machine... $900.00 for a new installed... and it's not his first one replaced!!! ;)
    I change mine EVERY winter and CHECK every week!

    Good Luck
  8. lamintdog

    lamintdog LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    I know this thread is really old but this is proof it's still worthwhile - I just wanted to let you know that it helped me immensely and thank you for posting it. I bought a 2003 MT20 w/2k hrs - hadn't been run in a year. I'm going through it now changing all fluids like the OP & got mixed up on the wheel drives vs hydro's. Thought they were one large unit - drained the wheel drive & couldn't figure out why the air bleed on the hydro was still full. :hammerhead: All good now. Thank you from 2015.

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