How to prep a sodded yard before re sodding

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by AFM Contracting, May 8, 2007.

  1. AFM Contracting

    AFM Contracting LawnSite Member
    Messages: 32

    Hello, I am wondering what the best way is to prep a lawn for sod. I have three jobs lined up where the lawn has many weeds and bare patches and the customers want it re-soded.
    I guess my options are roto-tiller, bobcat, or sod cutter. I dont like the idea of a roto tiller... seems a little overkill, bobcat wont fit, unless i rent a walk behind one, but ive never used it and not sure how well they work. and i have never used a sod cutter. just looking for opinions and any advice you can give. thanks.
  2. Albery's Lawn & Tractor

    Albery's Lawn & Tractor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,674

    roto till. Why would you waste the time of using a sod cutter to cut it up if your just gonna re sod it. You'd be doing way too much work.
  3. Dreams To Designs

    Dreams To Designs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,406

    Roundup, rototill, compost, rototill, grade, rake, 1/2 recommended starter fertilizer and sod. Apply other 1/2 of starter fertilizer and water well.

  4. Pro-Scapes

    Pro-Scapes LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,180

    kirks on it as usual. If you do not kill the weeds before you install and simply til them in your going to have a weed infested lawn. It may take you an extra 2 weeks to get a good kill on them but it will be worth it. Sometimes we roundup twice... do it once... watch it for a week and if some still strong hit it again then wait a week to 10 days and then til it... add needed ammendments till it again then final rake it.

    apply half your starter... water it lightly then apply your sod and roll it in for a nice smooth lawn. Apply othe half of starter and keep sod moist til established but dont over water it.
  5. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Messages: 2,250

    Don't forget to roll it a little to make good contact with the soil. I just sodded some centipede and added a light layer of spagnum peat to help seal the seams. On those seams--make sure that you stagger them as in brickwork. A riding mower does a good job with a heavy guy on it letting the tracks be your roller. Just some thoughts. I also water every day for two weeks.
  6. cantoo

    cantoo LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,910

    I did a lawn recently that had a bunch of bare spots. I used a heavy tine dethatcher I made for the front of my Steiner. It works great, pics of the tines are in the Pictures thread. The tines are heavy enough to rip the bare spots up good without making a big mess of the existing grass. Couple of passes and it looked like it had been tilled. Customer was in a hurry so I didn't have time to spray first so I'll hit it with Tri Kil later if they want. I also made a steel lawn roller with 1" long spikes on it to make holes in the soil for water and pack things down a little.
  7. PR Fect

    PR Fect LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,076

    Same as you would if you were going to seed it. PR
  8. Plant Buyer 83

    Plant Buyer 83 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 176

    Ya i'd agree with Kirk, he's right on. If you have the time do what Pro Scapes said and Round Up twice you'll be much happier when you have very little weeds to deal with. Remember many perennial weeds like Ground Ivy (hard as nails to get rid of) that root at the nodes, that are just rototilled into the ground will just created hundreds of new weeds to deal with so Round Up is key.

  9. DiyDave

    DiyDave LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,695

    Roundup pro wait 4 days, do it again if you missed anything, then harley rake, haul out a little debris, harley rake in a different direction, then sod. I use ASV RC30, and it flies! Make sure they water right, and put it in a contract.:dancing: :dancing:

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