Would you guys use a bastard file and a regular file where you could find at like HOME DEPOT or CANADIAN TIRE to use to sharpen your manual equipment? and then an angle grinder for your hedge trimmer teeths?

 

Would you guys use a bastard file and a regular file where you could find at like HOME DEPOT or CANADIAN TIRE to use to sharpen your manual equipment? and then an angle grinder for your hedge trimmer teeths?

I saw at home depot a dremel attachment with a stone and
looks like a 45 degree guide that attaches to the end. $ Eightbucks for the stone and guide. The guide also fit the Black & Decker power unit which was only $39.00 dollars. Replacement stones $2.99. Supposed to do mower blades also.
Anybody use the dremel attachment?

 

I got the dremal attachment a few weeks ago and haven't tried it yet. I'm hoping to this weekend.

 

I just bought a DeWalt Angle Grinder.. Boy, am I glad I bought this

Thisi s what I'm using to sharpen my lawn mower blades, hedge trimmers, and hand equipment ie) loppers, hedge shears, shovels..

 

I just bought a DeWalt Angle Grinder.. Boy, am I glad I bought this

Thisi s what I'm using to sharpen my lawn mower blades, hedge trimmers, and hand equipment ie) loppers, hedge shears, shovels..

I see the need for replacement blades on hedge trimmers lopper, hedge shears, shovels???
Angle Grinder mower blades only

Mac

 

I use the Dremel Tool. Works Great!

 

You must have more money than Donald Trump Alpine. You are going to kill you hedge blades quick.Last time I checked blades for my shinny were $350. I use a dremal with a regular stone on it.And do not take to much off If you read the owners manual,it says the more important thing is to keep the bolts that hold the blades together at the proper tightness.ie tighten the bolts till you can just turn the washers with your finger nail.Hope this makes sence DON'T USE THE GRINDER.
:waving:

 

I have used a file on my hedge trimmer to take the rolled edge off each of the blades but would never use an angle grinder on something that needs such precision. I do it very carefully one small edge at a time and it only takes about 15 minutes total. Not too bad.

 

Ya, I'll think I'll use the file on the hedge trimmers.. I was considering using the angle grinder but then said, Its a MEAN MACHINE for the hedge trimmers..

Oh well.. I'll take my time and file the hedge trimmers..

 

Take 4" grinder put a cut off wheel on with 50 grit sanding pad on top and go to work. The plastic back-up devices you normally use with 50 grit catches in the blades sometime and gets damaged. This is used for mower blades also...this is how our local shop does it.

 

I use a pneumatic die grinder with one of those thin cutting wheels attached. I can control the rpm's and the wheel is very flexible and just large enough to get a good even grind. Its not like a angle grinder...that would kill the blades on a trimmer. I just sharpened my trimmers a few days ago and the grind is almost like a new grind. Very even and clean .....The absolute best way i found to sharpen those blades..........


O-O

 

I use a pneumatic die grinder with one of those thin cutting wheels attached. I can control the rpm's and the wheel is very flexible and just large enough to get a good even grind. Its not like a angle grinder...that would kill the blades on a trimmer. I just sharpened my trimmers a few days ago and the grind is almost like a new grind. Very even and clean .....The absolute best way i found to sharpen those blades..........

O-O

Thats what we use , A 3 inch cutoff disc in a air die grinder. We tried one of the dremmel tools, but found it really slow and the stone would wear out before we could even finish one set of blades.

 

Damn, this is my 1st time sharpening everything and I'm doing a bad job lol.. I'm learning on the lawn mower blades, hedge shears and loppers.. I tried the hedge trimmer out a few times, but couldn't do it!!! :realmad: :realmad: :realmad:

I'm not sure how to sharpen the tools. Should I press hard into the lawn mower blades with the angle grinder or just sharpen it lightly so that sparks are coming out?

I have a file, angle grinder with 4" discs metal and a dremel with metal bit as well!

:realmad: :realmad: :realmad:

 

This is what I use for everything but mower blades... Snap on die grinder..

 

Almost like the angle grinder..

 

I use a sanding disk on my angle grinder for sharpining hedge trimmer blades. Takes less off then the grinding wheel

 

Damn,

I'm playing around with my angle grinder with the metal disc attachment, and I find that I'm having a tough time sharpening my loppers, hedge shears, hand pruners. While sharpening the equipment, I'm making the blades blueing and then I find the edge has grits from the opposite sides... Is this bad?

I'm not sure what angle to sharpen it at, stupid comment but how can you really tell if the blade is sharp?

I run my finger tips along the edge and it seems sharp, but after a few cuts of the branches the blade is dull immediately....

I'm beginning to think I need to take the blades to the dealer to get sharpened!! argh!!

 

I take all of my stuff to the dealer. I have a blade sharpener and do the mower blades myself, but tools and 2cyc- equipment go to the dealer..

 

The proper way to sharpen hedge trimmer blades is to remove the blades, sharpen along the original contour and trim the end of each tooth to maintain the original shape. If the tooth is allowed to get to narrow it can break more easily.

If you use a flat file and cut a notch at the base of the teeth the possibility of breaking the tooth increases. Hedge trimmer blades are heat treated and cutting a notch with a flat file is not a good idea.

Sharpen the blades with the tool of your choice, maintain the contour and remember to dress the underside of each tooth. If you look closely at a blade you will see that only the cutting edge of each tooth makes contact with the opposing tooth. After sharpening, the edges will be ragged so place the blade on a flat surface and dress it with a stone or very carefully with a flexible grinding wheel. The edge of each tooth must contact the edge of each tooth on the opposing blade. If the blades are perfectly flat they will not cut well and won't hold an edge as long as a concave tooth. Little Wonder sells stones for sharpening hedge trimmer blades.

Repack the gear case with Gator Grease if it is available in your area. Gator Grease is the choice where trimmers are run 8 hours every day and positively will not spin off the gears and cams. NEVER rub grease between the blades, use a very low viscosity spray lubricant.

Proper adjustment of the bolts holding the blades together is very important. The washers or brackets on the underside of the blade must be allowed to move with finger pressure. Too tight, and the gear case takes a hit, too loose, and the blades take a real beating. Check this adjustment very after each days use.

Paint the last 6" of all hedge trimmer blades with international orange day glo paint.


Oldtimer

 

Yay, I found out how to sharpen equipment with a file.. I've been sharpening my equipment with the angle grinder all wrong..

When using the angle grinder, I would just slide the angle grinder left and right, vice versa..

When using the file, I go down and across... this is the correct way of sharpen..

So tmrw, I'm going to try and sharpen the equipment with the angle grinder going down and across!

Geez, all this time, I was sharpening going from left and right, when it was suppose to be DOWN and ACROSS!

 

The proper way to sharpen hedge trimmer blades is to remove the blades, sharpen along the original contour and trim the end of each tooth to maintain the original shape. If the tooth is allowed to get to narrow it can break more easily.

If you use a flat file and cut a notch at the base of the teeth the possibility of breaking the tooth increases. Hedge trimmer blades are heat treated and cutting a notch with a flat file is not a good idea.

Sharpen the blades with the tool of your choice, maintain the contour and remember to dress the underside of each tooth. If you look closely at a blade you will see that only the cutting edge of each tooth makes contact with the opposing tooth. After sharpening, the edges will be ragged so place the blade on a flat surface and dress it with a stone or very carefully with a flexible grinding wheel. The edge of each tooth must contact the edge of each tooth on the opposing blade. If the blades are perfectly flat they will not cut well and won't hold an edge as long as a concave tooth. Little Wonder sells stones for sharpening hedge trimmer blades.

Repack the gear case with Gator Grease if it is available in your area. Gator Grease is the choice where trimmers are run 8 hours every day and positively will not spin off the gears and cams. NEVER rub grease between the blades, use a very low viscosity spray lubricant.

Proper adjustment of the bolts holding the blades together is very important. The washers or brackets on the underside of the blade must be allowed to move with finger pressure. Too tight, and the gear case takes a hit, too loose, and the blades take a real beating. Check this adjustment very after each days use.

Paint the last 6" of all hedge trimmer blades with international orange day glo paint.

Oldtimer

Hey oldtimer very nice description and maintenance points. Did you work for a School or other type maintenance dept. ?

the "orange day glo paint. " leads me to believe so.

 

What's the purpose of painting the lat 6" with orange paint?

Is it so that the hedge trimmer is visable and you dont lose the attachment?