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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why would zones 4-12 stop working? Hunter Pro-C controller w/ one black expansion gives 6 zones. 1-3 worked, 4-6 show blinking sprinkler icon but no water/sound. On right side, moved zone 6 to 1 and can start watering manually. Multimeter measured common white terminal to 1-6 when each was blinking, got 25VAC on 1-3, nothing on 4-6. Bought new PLC-300 expansion module but no change. Replaced prior module in zone 4-6 slot so it would recognize the new one in 7-9 then 10-12 none of which have ever been used. When manually starting those zones in turn, measured no VAC. Slide module lock bar up to off, disconnected zone 1-6 wires and measured resistance, IIRC about 27 Ohms each. On left side I measured output of transformer and got 25VAC across the 24V terminals and some others from ground (Green) to REM/SEN wires. Rain sensor bypassed electronically and by manual switch. Any more troubleshooting ideas?
 

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Did zones 4-6 work before changing the 3 station expansion module to a 6 station?
You add zones 7-9 somewhere right, which is the reason you changed to a 6 station module?
 

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Have you turned on 4-12 and checked the outgoing voltage at each terminal? If 4-12 ohm correctly the problem's at the controller. If zone 6 works when placed in the #1 terminal you can do the same test with the other 8 non working zones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did zones 4-6 work before changing the 3 station expansion module to a 6 station?
Yes and no. It was originally working with one PLC-300 1-6, then 4-6 stopped working, a new PLC-300 was used to test 4-6, when it failed, the old was put back in 4-6 and the new as 7-9 to test another slot, then moved to 10-12 to test the final top slot.

You add zones 7-9 somewhere right, which is the reason you changed to a 6 station module?
No, 6 and only 6 zones. Higher zones used just to wire the existing 6 zones to different controller outputs for testing.

Have you turned on 4-12 and checked the outgoing voltage at each terminal?
Yes, manually starting 4-12 and measuring their voltage reads near 0V.

If 4-12 ohm correctly the problem's at the controller.
Is there anything else to be done before replacing the entire controller?
 

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If you have no power on the original module, 4-6, then you did the right thing replacing it. If you still don’t have power on 4-6 , then the controller is bad. You double checked, to make sure the 4-6 wires worked by running 6 to zone 1. That’s it, don’t over think it. These are not that complicated.
 
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