Hustler Super Z - problems with model

Discussion in 'General Industry Discussions' started by greenology, Oct 4, 2012.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. puppypaws

    puppypaws LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,177

    This is very true, and there are places you must slow down, not that I like to, but it is necessary if you care to stay in the seat. There is also a difference in rough ground with bumps here and there, compared to this washboard ground he is cutting in the video. I run run wide open and take a pretty good bump in stride because of allowing the mower to smooth out before hitting the next rough spot. The washboard affect never gives your mower time to level out, it hits one high spot, goes down, and then immediately goes up on the next high spot. This would give you the ride that is showing in the video, one comparable of riding a bucking horse.
  2. Realslowww

    Realslowww LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,527

    Hey Puppy do you know anything about the pricing break if you have government contracts?
  3. greenology

    greenology LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 816

    The suspension seat is set as stiff as it goes in this video, I think its 130kg. I have tried all different settings on the seat. The tires have been down to 8 PSI, It didnt help at all as I have said. The dealer are the ones who put the pressure back up after I put them down.

    I dont know why you guys think I am cutting at 15 MPH, I should do a video of me cuttign at 15 MPH just to show you guys how slow im actually going in comparison.

    You guys all keep saying this lawn is very rough. I have been cutting on this lawn for over 2 yrs and my previous zero turns I could run flat out 13 KPH over all these bumps WITHOUT any problem whatsoever. the old one had no flex forks, no seat suspension. I assure you they did NOT buck and bull like this machine does. I cant go 3 KPH over all the bumps I encounter or I will be out there all day to complete just 1 lawn.

    This machine is very rough either accross the board, or there is something specific with my build that is yet to be identified.

    Im sure this is not as simple as me being a complete idiot who cant figure out how to operate a new zero turn correctly, as you all seem to be suggesting.

    That aside, I do appreciate peoples input, I assure you all that every time I take the machine out I am trying to ride it in a way that doesnt cause the jerking in my body, its something I definately want to avoid! accept in those videos I was happy for it to do it all the time to show whats happening, therefor they are very dramatic.
  4. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,943

    The only rigid frame mower that may cut with a better ride would be a 72" classic Lazer. The long front caster arms were small (1.5x2" IIRC) and long and did flex quite well.

    Only thing I could suggest is to try another set of Flex-Forks. Maybe these are just too stiff?
    Posted via Mobile Device
  5. Ridin' Green

    Ridin' Green LawnSite Fanatic
    Male, from Michigan
    Messages: 17,809

    Well, unless the female in the video is waaaay heavier than she appears to be, the seat couldn't have been set at the top for her there. She wouldn't have had enough body weight to get the seat to bounce and buckle on every single bump like it does in your video.

    I don't think you are getting what we are saying either. I don't believe many, if anyone have said they thought you were going/mowing 15 MPH. I know I didn't say that.

    I didn't say that you didn't know how to do anything with a Z either. I did say to check your tire gauge though, to make sure it is working correctly. 8 PSI isn't much pressure, and many gauges simply don't read accurately that low, even if they say they can go down to 1lb PSI.

    Common sense dictates that your machine simply can't be that far off from any other machine as far as the ride goes. There has to be some easy and logical corrections that can be made to it. You may have mowed that property on other machines in the past, but IIRC, Mickhippy said that you guys have been in a drought? That would certainly make the ground a lot harder to ride over. Whether or not you want to believe it,, the ground in the video is very rough, and that's easy too see just by watching the rear tires bounce.

    If you come to a public forum and ask for opinions or help, you gotta be willing to listen, especially when the vast majority of the posters are telling you the same thing.:)
  6. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,943

    I could understand the ride comfort concerns if you we're coming from a Ferris full suspension or a Dixie Chopper. But setting those aside, a Flex-Forked Hustler is up at the very top as far as comfort goes.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  7. Mickhippy

    Mickhippy LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,275

    I watched the vids again and it looks as though you had less body movement when you were leaning forward. Again, adjust the seat back more angled away from your back so it doesnt hit you, and lean further away from it when you go over any rough ground.

    You need to set the seat weight about 10kg or so more than you weigh, or just enough so it doesnt bottom out most of the time. Setting it at 130kg or what ever is too stiff. I weigh about 85kg and the seat is set at around 95kg.

    Below is a photo of where my deck springs are set. I have about 1.5" more for adjustment. How much do you have? Try adjusting that nut all the way to the end, both sides of the deck. If that doesnt work ask your dealer about shortening them. It will be a pita to do so let the dealer do it if you go down that road. May even need to find a shorter and or weaker spring. I would not take them off altogether!

    Get yourself a low pressure tire gauge. Unless your dealer used one, you have no real idea whats in there. Last time I let my dealer level my deck they set one tire up around 24psi and the other 18 or so. I asked for 10psi. Dont even get me started on all that though!

    Try holding the levers further down, like around the first bend. That will give you less leverage so therefore probably less chance of jerking. Also, use a lighter touch.

    The above should sort your forward/back, up and down but going front on over ruts like your doing in the vid will be rough no matter what machine of similar size, Ferris excluded.
    How did those ruts get there? The place has either been mowed in both directions or possible circular. Seriously try a different direction. Think of the union jack with the 4 different angles. Doing angles doesnt add much time and Im sure youd be able to make it up with a faster speed. Next time you go over a speed bump, try hitting it at an angle. Its much less severe then hitting it front on as only one wheel has to absorb the shock at a time.

    Id like to see vid of you driving the Dixon over those same ruts. Id also like to see a side by side comparison of speed between the Dix and the SZ. I wonder if your actually going faster than you think.

    Below are a few pics of a property I just picked up. I DID NOT do whats in the pics. I got the job because of it. Every one of those lines is a rut from being mowed in the same circular direction for god knows how long. The terracing is insane. Point is, no way I can get any real speed on this place as the deck will bounce badly and is really not good on my back. Point is, I know its rough so adjust my methods accordingly.



  8. mtmower

    mtmower LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,111

    OP, I found a similar situation going from an XR7 SZ to the Gravely 460. The property I have is rough, flat, wide open, I cut fast, and when the sun goes down shows every uneven cut (you can see if you ck my posts). Yes the 460's seat and isolation is awesome but if you removed both seats and ran them my SZ (with flex forks) rides smoother and leaves a smoother cut on this particular property. After a whole season of beating this into the ground I believe in my case that the 460 is lighter in the front end causing the front to bounce more, also it has a shorter wheel base which directly effects the ride, a ever so slightly higher COG, and lastly like others stated, on my 460 there is so much give in the seat design (which can be adjusted) that the rocking and bouncing will make you move the steering sticks unless you can be super limp wristed to absorb the motion. Then after trying all sorts of things I believe I found my answer to the extreme difference in machine rides. I've cut this property with my SZs for the last 7 years and I think my ruts from years of SZ (even when changing the pattern every time) are oddly positioned in such a way that the shorter wheel base of the 460 hits the ruts in a terrible out of sync manner if this makes sense. Feels like I'm on a bucking bronc if I push my speed. I think if the rut pattern from my SZ was narrow or wider that the 460 would not react so violently. In summary your previous mowers rut width may be spaced in such a way that the SZ is hitting the ruts out of time or sync. So yes the 460 may have room for a tweak of improvement here or there but I concluded that it's not so much the mower to blame but the rut pattern of the property. Don't know if I'm making sense.
  9. Mickhippy

    Mickhippy LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,275

  10. Ridin' Green

    Ridin' Green LawnSite Fanatic
    Male, from Michigan
    Messages: 17,809

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page