Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by firstclasslawncareandplow, Nov 1, 2005.

  1. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    there is probably several thousand different varities of turf type tall fescue. Generally, it is a shorter growing, finer bladed than the regular K31 tall fescue. For a lawn you might try one of the TTTF blends which is usually three different varities of fescue in the same bag. You can add one of the improved varities of Kentucky bluegrass as well as one of the turf rye's. You can visit www.ntep.org to get a better recommendation as to which type of grass is better suited to your area.

    Starter fertilizer is usually a high Phosphorous fertilizer blend, 18/24/12 seems to be one of the more popular off the self ones. I have mine special blended based on soil samples from my area. A soil test is the only way to get an accurate blend for you soil since all soils are different, even you neighbors soil is probably a little different than yours.
  2. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,496

    Love their disclaimer... "Your mileage may vary." :p
  3. big_country

    big_country LawnSite Member
    Messages: 118

    Is it creeping fescue or red fescue that grows well in shady areas (maybe neither)? Thanks for the help
  4. impactlandscaping

    impactlandscaping LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,332

    creeping red fescue for shade, and in your area a little chewings fescue with it would be OK.
  5. allinearth

    allinearth LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 612

    Anybody run lime through their hydroseeder? Or is the best way to dry spread it?
  6. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    I use lime in every tank load. I buy the pulverized lime not the pelletized. I also dont, and wont, use liquid lime products. If you are having your soil tested and it calls for large amounts of lime, dont try using the recommended amounts in your hydroseeder. Soil test recommendations are mean for 6 to 8 inches of incorporation into the soil. With a hydroseeder you are only applying to the top layer of the soil. Reduce lime rates to 15%-30% of recommended rates. If you are worried about wear and tear on the pumps, it will happen, but the mulch acts like a lubricant since the lime will be suspended in the slurry. The amount of actual wear in probably very little more than normal wear and tear if you didnt add lime and no more than if you are using granular fertilizers.
  7. allinearth

    allinearth LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 612

    Muddstoper...What machine do you use? How much lime can you run through per tank? How much do you apply per tank on average? I have a turfmaker and don't currently use lime but am considering starting after reading posts. Sorry for so many questions.
  8. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    In my 600 gal finn, I use 100lbs of dolomitic pulverized lime per tank as well as 50lbs of granular fertilizer, with 7000 sqft of coverage.
  9. allinearth

    allinearth LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 612

    I use homogenized fert in mine. looks like it will break down better and be easier on the pump.
  10. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    Unfortunatly, what ever kind of fertilizer you use, it is still going to be hard on the pumps. The granular fert's will dissolve in the slurry but the corrosion factor is still there. Centrifical pumps will handle the corrosion and grit better than the bowie gear pump that is on your TurfMaker. The biggest help to combat the corrosion is making sure you flush the pump with clean water before parking it at the end of the workday. With the gear pump, never run it dry. Running dry with a centrifical only hurts the seals but with a gear pump, you actually have gear to gear contact and the water or slurry is the only lubrication they get.

    Fertilizer in the slurry also has a harmful effect on the seed, basicly you are soaking the seed in a salt solution which slows germination and can actually kill the seed. The best way to apply the fert and lime is to broadcast and incorporate into the soil before seeding, whether hydroseeding, slit, or broadcasting. In critical area seeding, where hydroseeders where originally intended to be used, broadcasting and incorporating fertilizer and lime is usually not possible. In this type seeding applying the materials with a hydroseeder is often the only option. With most lawns, better results are usually obtained if the materials are appled to the soil before the actuall seeding process takes place.

    If soil admendments are being added to the hydroseeding slurry care should be taken in types chosen and amounts used. Especially since with a hydroseeder you are only applying those materials to the top layer of the soil. For this reason, even soil test recommendations should be considered to large an amount to use for seed establishment, this is because the test recommendation are meant to be incorporated into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches and you are only treating the top layer of the soil. Chooseing fertilizers with lower salt content will also improve the germination factor of the seed. Nitrogen in Nitrate form has a much higher salt index than ammonical forms, muriate of potash contains twice as much salt as sulfate of potash.

    Over application and wrong choice of fertilizers is probably responsible for more seeding failures than improper watering techniques, this is true whether hydroseeding or using a more conventional form of seeding. Unwatered seed will lay dormant for a long time before seed kill happens, and will germinate whenever enough water is available for it to do so. Not so with fertilizer coated seed. The salt content of the fertilizers will compete with the seed for avilable moisture, as well as convert to nitrogen gas, and can kill the seed off before germination in as little as 24 hrs after application.:)

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