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I need a large transmission engage metal flexible tubing

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by roody2333, Sep 25, 2017.

  1. roody2333

    roody2333 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 712

    For small 21-22" push mowers, you know these trans engage cables:
    [​IMG]


    Well, the wire inside keeps breaking. I have the tension right, otherwise the trans would be always spinning the wheels if it were too tight. If I'm using my 22" toro, it'll break about once every 6 weeks and is a PITA. They are only $15 on ebay but I already have a swagging tool and some wire and crimps so I just replace the wire for like $0.50. But it still always breaks because the wire is too thin. I keep spare wire and Throttle Stop Nuts with me for emergency repair until I can crimp a new one later but they always break at the worst time. You can only fit I think it's 1/16th wire in the stock tubes. I grease the wire before I put it in so it acts as a rust barrier but they break with no rust.



    So is there possibly a mower or piece of equipment that uses a larger version of this? something I can fit like 1/8-1/4" wire in? I was looking at "flexible metal tubing" but it's basically too limp, like faucet supply lines. The tubing has to be stiff enough so that if you push the tubing, it'll take the slack out of the wire - that's how you adjust the trans cable when the belt starts to stretch a little or the trans or wheel gears start to ware down a little and you need to put more tension on the wire to compensate. The tubing is stiff enough to push the wire outward in a sort of "C" and thus when you pull the wire, the tubing doesn't pull with the wire - it keeps it taught and therefore gives more tension if you set the tubing this way for more tension...


    Also it needs that connector at the bottom that pops into a hole in the mower deck and then you squeeze it with pliers to pop it back out the hole to remove the tubing/cable.

    And then on the handlebar where you adjust the tube, this tubing would be too thick to put into the stock bracket but I could improvise on that end too basically with a clamp - undo the clamp and slide in/out to reduce/increase slack in the tubing.

    And then I'll just drill a slightly larger hole in the deck to accommodate the larger pop-in connector.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2017
  2. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,158

    Look, all ya gotta do is google bulk "clutch cable".
    Fleabay has the stuff.
     
  3. Fuzzy1

    Fuzzy1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 380

  4. JagT20N

    JagT20N LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from will county Il
    Messages: 671

    or replace it with a teleflex-morse cable , its what they use on stuff like boats for throttle control , steering , we use them on some earth movers with remote hydraulic controls , on trucks for PTo cotrols , real strong and flexible and its a couple of small strand wires about the same size as a hard wire cable . only problem its expensive and many choices of it . ,
     
    hort101 likes this.
  5. roody2333

    roody2333 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 712

    hmm I dunno if those clutch cables can hold at least 1/8" wire though, might just be the same 16th" wires. I'll look around.

    If it came down to it, I might: screw down a piece of curved metal to the deck where the wire bends when leaving the hole in the deck where normally there's that plastic snap-in connector (so the wire isn't friction on the sharp edge of the deck hole). Then drill one hole though the handle at mid point. Put a 6" 2x4 block and drill an oval out of the flat side of it. This oval connects the block to the hole drilled in the handle via a bolt and wingnut - the wingnut can be loosened and tightened while sliding the block up or down the oval to get the correct tension. Then through the thicker side of the 2x4 block I can drill a pilot hole and tap a piece of hollow metal tubing that the 1/4" wire slides though (so there's not much friction).
     

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