1. Can’t make it to the GIE+EXPO 2017?
    LawnSite brings the trade show floor to your fingertips with our new GIE+EXPO 2017 Sneak Peek video series debuting now in the Lawn Mowing forum.

    Dismiss Notice

I need seeding advise for my 5acre Yard.

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Z400ACDC, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. Z400ACDC

    Z400ACDC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 36

    I bought this home in Bowling Green, KY 4 years ago and I am trying to get a thicker yard. I have tried to aerate before I seed with ky 31 fescue. What is your advise on aeration and seeding. When and how deep should I aerate? I just have one of those 4' jobs that pulls out the plugs. When is the best time to spring seed? Thanks for any help!!!!!
  2. Real Green

    Real Green LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 389

    I could offer advice in terms of seeding, but I think it's better to let someone directly in your area take a stab at this. Someone in Southern Ohio, Southern Indiana, or Kentucky. I hate when people in Alabama tell a guy in Rhode Island what he should be doing. So let's hear it... any takers?
  3. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,969

    Real Green

    You are a guy with my same feelings. I can't tell a guy on the other side of the state what to charge let alone a guy in Maine. How can we evaluate a fert program when we have no idea of the climate or soil in that area ETC. Theory can be discussed here but the final choice is the individuals job. There is Protocol for certain jobs like seeding and while my area doesn't seed, but sods or plugs I log on this thread to see what I could learn.


    Any time I get a renovation request I first try and figure out why the turf has not expressed itself to the fullest. By establishing the problem, you can save a lot of money by addressing the cause. Your County Extension Agent might be the best person to contact for this. He is paid by your state Land Grant University and has no economic interest it selling you any thing.

    Sorry I didn't mean to steal any one's thunder.
  4. mrkosar

    mrkosar LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 680

    to get the best results fight through the spring and summer with a thin lawn for one more season. putting any money into spring seeding is silly in my opinion. you will have tons of crabgrass and if we have another dry summer lots of the new grass might not survive.

    wait until september and seed the lawn then. with a lawn that big it would cost a good amount of money to seed the entire thing. my advice, feed and mow it correctly. this by itself might take care of some of the patchiness. if you have big bare spots maybe slit seed those. Aerate at least two ways if you plan on broadcasting seed over the holes. Then pray for rain! If you don't water the seed job properly, then the results won't be too good. I'm assuming with 5 acres it is tough to water properly. So, pick your spots correctly, save money, and be patient. Mow the lawn at 3-4 inches and feed the lawn at least in the spring once and fall twice.
  5. sprayboy

    sprayboy LawnSite Senior Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 936

    Ric, Real Green,

    Great posts,
    I have noticed people giving recomendations from other parts of the country and don't understand how they can do that accurately. I live about two hours North of Kentucky and know the conditions are alot different down there from here, let alone another two hours to Bowling Green.


    Sit tight, you should get some responses from someone in Kentucky or Northern Tennessee.

    I agree with Ric in that a county agent would be a good call.
    Getting soil samples would be good also.
  6. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Messages: 6,153


    Go to the RENOVATION AND MAINTENANCE forum as that is where most of the seeding talks are.

    How is your current lawn? What kind of grass is already there? What is the thickness? How is the weed control? Are you happy with what you currently have such the type of grass (color, blade look etc)?

    These are the questions you need to ask yourself to see if you want to just thiken up your current lawn....or spray glyphosate and start over.

    If somewhat thick and happy with current lawn then there is no need to start over. You can slice seed or aerate the crap out of it and seed it.

    If thin, you can still aerate the crap out of it and then slice seed it.

    I would NEVER recommend seeding with KY 31 unless that is what the current lawn is. Is is not a good blade for a res lawn.

    Turf Type Tall Fescue is the way to go. It has the same characteristics as KY 31 Fescue (drought tolerance, disease tolerance and low mainenance), but has a smaller blade and is darker.

    I seed a lot in the spring so don't let that bother you. Is spring the best time to seed? NO...but it is done all the time and I have great success with it. I do probably 30% of my seeding in the spring. Fall is best...but you missed that so spring is the next best thing.

    Good Luck!
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
  7. Z400ACDC

    Z400ACDC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 36

    I guess I should have given you more info. My home was built in a pasture field In 1997. The 3 acres in the front I have helped a lot in the 4 years I have owned it. My family farms and my Dad said it needed lime. Every year I lime in the fall and fert with tripple 19 in the spring. The 2-2.5 acres in the back is the problem. I had to till and seed it and have never got a good stand. How deep do you aerate before you seed? What grass type should I seed the back? The rest is all fescue 31. The front looks good. The Grass hopper makes it look good, nice stripes! THANKS!!!!!
  8. Barefoot James

    Barefoot James LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 984

    www.mayesturf.com - located in Franklin and they can do it or rent you the most awesome stuff to do it. Fall is best if you can wait - spring is ok if you water all summer.
  9. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,562

    I am only about 8 hours away. LOL! Creech is right K-31 is old-fashioned 1960's breeding stock. Better grass seed would help. I recently listened to a talk by famed grass breeder Dr. Leah Brillman of Seed Research of Oregon. She mentioned "Second Millenium" tall fescue. Take a look at the NTEP seed trials. Maybe overseed with the 2008 top tall fescue from Kentucky, "Firecracker", (also tied for second place nationally). (Or something else from the top 10). Add about 10 percent of a high quality Kentucky bluegrass to help fill in thin areas because tall fescue does not creep--it will not heal thin spots. Dr. Brillman said "Apollo" is an excellent hybrid bluegrass. Heat tolerant because it is a cross of KBG with Texas bluegrass, strong rhizomes. I assume you do not have irrigation--so fertilize when ever you have good moisture, (and below 85 degrees to avoid disease problems.)

Share This Page